Search found 2098 matches

by Bargepole
Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:12 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Alpa Fougere Eau de Cologne
Replies: 26
Views: 10370

Yes! Oakmoss! Nitro musks!

*googles frantically*
by Bargepole
Sat Apr 27, 2013 11:10 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet Cologne . . .
Replies: 25
Views: 6908

Can't really think of anything similar, let alone anything similar and better-priced (Blenheim is wildly overpriced, as, nowadays, is most of the English stuff). If it's the pine you like, Pino Silvestre is pretty good. Lacks the lemon, more herbal, but similar in effect. Otherwise... my mind's a bl...
by Bargepole
Fri Apr 19, 2013 2:27 pm
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Aftershave Splashes Discontinued?
Replies: 20
Views: 6027

Yup - EdT plus water, glycerin and witch hazel.

Not sure about the menthol. But I notice there's no oakmoss in there at all now...
by Bargepole
Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:10 am
Forum: The Gentlemen's Parlor
Topic: Boston Marathon
Replies: 11
Views: 1188

jww wrote: Unbelievable --- just unbelievable.
I wish it were. And I remember when it was. What changed?
by Bargepole
Tue Apr 16, 2013 12:02 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Fooled Again By the Anlophiles in this Club
Replies: 25
Views: 3695

Oh...whatever!....lavender IS 'English', damn it!...I don't care what anyone says! Damn bull-headed fundamentalist you are, Gordon. And the French in the post Napoleonic period thought so too, so there! Okay, make that "damn' bull-headed WELL-INFORMED fundamentalist". Anyway, must dash. You'll find...
by Bargepole
Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:56 pm
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: Trumper Has Gone Too Far
Replies: 82
Views: 8124

Gordon - (a) a fascinating account, as usual, and -- wow! -- Yardley Invisible Talc ("For After Shaving"). I remember that stuff. I loved it though it was only invisible if you were a faintly brick-coloured Caucasian; one of my best friends at school was black (and I don't mean brown; I mean really ...
by Bargepole
Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:20 am
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: Trumper Has Gone Too Far
Replies: 82
Views: 8124

Just an afterthought: is this perhaps an example of the Grandfather's Axe Syndrome ("My father replaced the head and I replaced the shaft...")? Take poor beleaguered Trumper as an example. I first used Spanish Leather in the 1970s. Now... The bottle's different. The crown stopper's different. The fo...
by Bargepole
Mon Apr 15, 2013 11:13 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Fooled Again By the Anlophiles in this Club
Replies: 25
Views: 3695

National styles: interesting. To me, Blenheim Bouquet is an Italian take on a fairly straightforward eau de Cologne - lemon/lime with a splash of pine; English Fern is of course a direct cover of Houbigant Fougère Royale. Neither specifically "English" to my snout, though the branding/marketing of t...
by Bargepole
Sun Apr 14, 2013 10:33 am
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: Trumper Has Gone Too Far
Replies: 82
Views: 8124

Well, speaking as a layman not a botanist or perfumer, I think fine toiletries are scented with natural extracts from plants. But plants change genetically from generation to generation. If my new tube of violet cream smells different from what I’m used to, perhaps it’s because the base fragrance o...
by Bargepole
Sun Apr 14, 2013 2:01 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Fooled Again By the Anlophiles in this Club
Replies: 25
Views: 3695

The "English thing" is quite a broad church - I suppose you could say we have a history of using geranium/lemon/patchouli, but I don't know I could nail down an "English" style which runs right across the board. Be interesting to get other people's opinions on this. On the whole, though, I think per...
by Bargepole
Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:57 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Aftershave Splashes Discontinued?
Replies: 20
Views: 6027

Michael, Wouldn't you have to add some alcohol along with the water? If you had 100 ml of 6% eau de toilette with, say, 80% alcohol , and you added 50 ml of water, then the resulting product would have only about 53% alcohol. I realize that aftershave may have a larger percentage of water than eau ...
by Bargepole
Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:48 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: creed aventus
Replies: 17
Views: 5293

Aventus.... well, it's a big hit but I personally don't get it. Something about it -- something like Ambroxan except it's not -- makes my nose itch, the olfactory equivalent of six guys doing trumpet practice in the shed. It's a swaggering edgy sort of composition, the kind of thing which brings to ...
by Bargepole
Sat Apr 13, 2013 11:19 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Aftershave Splashes Discontinued?
Replies: 20
Views: 6027

Proportions vary but a good rule of thumb is that after-shave lotion contains around 2 - 3% juice, eau de toilette around 6% and eau de parfum around 12%. So to get from eau de toilette to after shave concentration you roughly double the dilution. That strikes me as a bit extreme. You could try 100m...
by Bargepole
Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:50 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Aftershave Splashes Discontinued?
Replies: 20
Views: 6027

As far as I know, the Penhaligon aftershaves are simply the Penhaligon eaux de toilette + H2O. I don't think they have any humectant (glycerine etc) in though it's been a while since I used A/S and I may be misremembering. So pretty straightforward to get a bottle of EdT and dilute it with demineral...
by Bargepole
Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:50 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Penhaligon's Aftershave Splashes Discontinued?
Replies: 20
Views: 6027

As far as I know, the Penhaligon aftershaves are simply the Penhaligon eaux de toilette + H2O. I don't think they have any humectant (glycerine etc) in though it's been a while since I used A/S and I may be misremembering. So pretty straightforward to get a bottle of EdT and dilute it with demineral...
by Bargepole
Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:43 am
Forum: Colognes & Aftershaves
Topic: Trumpers Coral Skin Food Fragrance
Replies: 5
Views: 1240

Agreed. Pretty straightforward rose with a drop of geraniol or damascone to up the (very light) fragrance of the rosewater.
by Bargepole
Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:54 pm
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: A couple of Fern treasures, Houbigant & Pens
Replies: 36
Views: 3429

@Razor: interesting question. The cheapo ones seem to have done best: Clubman & Clubman Special Reserve, Tabac, Alt Innsbruck (not much they can do to THAT one; it is what it is and no room for maneouvre). Pino Sylvestre is holding up. Bay Rhum remains itself (though the very clove-y ones like Trump...
by Bargepole
Mon Mar 25, 2013 4:26 pm
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: A couple of Fern treasures, Houbigant & Pens
Replies: 36
Views: 3429

I checked out a current version today. Not a drop of oakmoss in it as far as I could tell; it's been completely supplanted by treemoss (Evernia furfuraceae, as opposed to E. prunastri). As you'd expect, the result is much more linear, lacking the clear green depth of oakmoss; instead it's almost ent...
by Bargepole
Fri Mar 22, 2013 11:06 am
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: A couple of Fern treasures, Houbigant & Pens
Replies: 36
Views: 3429

I haven't smelt the new English Fern as I loaded up with a couple of bottles of the old formula a couple of years ago. There are some ways round the IFRA regulations; there's a synthetic or two around, of which Evernyl is the best-known and Orcinyl-3 (Givaudan) probably the best, but neither have th...
by Bargepole
Sun Mar 17, 2013 2:14 pm
Forum: Shaving Creams & Hard Soaps
Topic: A couple of Fern treasures, Houbigant & Pens
Replies: 36
Views: 3429

The main problem with finding an acceptable fougère scent is regulation. The two essential notes are coumarin (now restricted to 1.6%) and oakmoss (evernia prunastri) (0.1% max; if, as usual, it's mixed with treemoss, the 0.1% is cumulative). This pretty much castrates the genre until a decent synth...