Comments on knives

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Sam
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Comments on knives

Post by Sam »

Thinking of the following knives and wanted to see what people say

I need an every day carry, so 2.5 to 3.0 inches is what works I think. I like the textured handles, not stainless. Dont want serrations or a tanto, though I dont know the difference between sheepsfoot or drop point. Also dont know the difference between hollow ground and full flat grind. Want something that will hold an edge and not be difficult to sharpen.

Most likely will use it around office and house: cut open boxes and envelopes, cut down cardboard to toss, electrical cords maybe, some twine, string and maybe boat rope (but if real thick, Ill have another knife).

Ones I am considering

Spyderco: Delica, Endura, Persistence, Tenacious, Native

Benchmade: Griptilian and Mini Griptilian

Kershaw: Shallot

I really like the feel and locking system of the Mini Grip. THe Delica comes in second but that spyder hole makes it more curved when close.
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Post by KAV »

Sam
A sheepsfoot is a knife without a point. They are found on sailor's knives and several craft specific blades. The english Warnclift is a variation. A Myerchin is a sheepsfoot.Sheepfoots became social convention and later regulation on ships. A slash wound could be stitched up, but deep punctures meant death.
Pointed knives are: spearpoint- both upper spine and blade equidistant from the centerline. You see these on combat knives for deep penetration or double edged blades such as a Sykes-Fairburn british commando knife or th LINDER sailors knife.
A drop point has a gradual taper from the spine to a point somewhere midway between centerline and spine. This is the most popular with good control. Swedish MORAS use mild drop points.
A swept point will see the edge rise ( think of a ship's bow) to the spine. Your more traditional scandinavian kinves have swept ponts.
The 'Tanto' proper is a japanese point for penetration of tough armour. It became a fad with the modified 'american tanto.' It has no discernable superiority in penetrating power vs a drop or spearpoint and far less utility. Cold Steel makes a tanto combat knife.

Hollowground, as used on many straight razors gives the inherently sharpest blade. The edge geometry consists of two concave planes. It is the easiest to manufacture ( two big grinding wheels) and inherently the least robust.Sheffield bowie knives are often hollowground.
The reverse is a convex blade often refered to as 'appleseed' or 'Moran' after a contemporary knifemaker who made it popular. These are VERY robust and excellent cutting edges, needlessly scare people learning to sharpen knives. Their drawback is poor woodworking for fine tasks.Fallknivens are Moran edged.
A sabre ground is a V (or compound V) on flat stock. It is strong, easy to sharpen if angles are kept true. A marine KaBar is sabre ground.
Scandinavian ground is a V all the way, or most of the way to the spine. it is the easiest to sharpen, merely laying the existing face on sharpening medium and is the best for wood working; Finnish Puukkos and Luekos.
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Post by KAV »

I've owned examples from all three makers you list.
All steel handles can burn in hot weather and tear skin in cold BTDT.
Textured or checkered grips/scales can be very abrasive on hands too.
Benchmades locking and opening sytem is marvelous. It also requires a dedicated oil and is subject to overzealous application of knife laws.
I found Kershaw rather indifferent in quality and execution of design, personal reaction.
You could get a inexpensive french OPINEL from www.ragweedforge.com
It's easy to sharpen, you can modify the wood to suit, easy to sharpen and you save a fistfull of dollars toward another knife when you have some cutting time behind you.
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Post by Sam »

Yeah, I feel indifferent about the Kershaws. I really liked how the Benchmade felt in my hand. I doubt I will have cutting 'sessions' as I am reading on bladeforums. com. The mini grip just calls out to me. Now, an oil for a knife? First time I read of that? Gotta try to sit down and work my way through your prior post.
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Post by KAV »

If a knife talks to you go with it. Benchmade folders employ a sophsiticated lock and release mechanism with teflon washers and everything is held together with torqueflex heads. You will need the oil and tools to maintain and adjust the release. My benchmade was a very rapid flicknife- and if you show off flicking all day premature wear can occur- and I adjusted it to a normal two handed opener when travelling in case local laws looked unkindly on one handed knives.
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Post by Sam »

Wear out? I mean, sure, Ill probably play with it but there will be many days when it goes unopened. Im not handy with repairs but I am not totally stupid either. So should I go with a Spyderco that does not sing as well>
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Post by KAV »

Get the Benchmade. It took me 6 months to buy the oil and I could have left the knife 'as out of box' if I wasn't traveling at the time. Unless you remove the belt clip ( I did) some come with don't worry about it.
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Post by drmoss_ca »

Sam, if you like to hone (possibly more than you like to cut things or stab it into non-paying clients, thick-headed judges etc) you might consider an Opinel. These knives aren't particularly pretty or impressive in appearance, but they are carbon steel and take an edge that will skin a sheep in less than five minutes. Exquisite sharpness. I have several sizes from pocket-sized to "I plead guilty to carrying an offensive weapon, m'lud" and all very nice indeed.

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Post by Sam »

Chris, Memphis does not have a lot of knives to offer. The big boxes may have at one point (Walmart, Dicks Sporting Goods) and a few hunting places do but the selections are for bigger 3.5" and up knives. As i drive down the street and have time, I will run it. But until I can know what I like and dont like, I will need to be able to feel and touch before I buy. You know how I dither about getting it just right the first time. I have pretty much decided Spyderco (the ease of opening,my nephews love them, and I held a few) and then the one Benchmade. Wife thinks I am stupid to want one since I have the two $5 cheapies (one fully serrated, plastic handle, the other half serrated and heavy aluminum handles) and right now, I may use the knife once or twice a week for no more than 30 seconds at a time. Well, I dont have a good answer other than I do.

KAV, I was all set for the Mini Grip in the sheepsfoot shape whatever grind it comes in until that oil thing. If i had to modify that release system, then I dont think the Mini Grip is all that anymore. Id just as soon get the Delica Spydie
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Post by KAV »

See my link above.
A Opinel and Mora will teach anybody how to sharpen,maintain and carry a knife for the price of lunch.
Mors Kochanski, dean of canadian outdoor instructors uses Moras.
I met a collector, ecstatic over finding a french foriegn legion fighting knife. These big things were limited and numbered for private purchase.
He paired it with the french issue GP folder, a very robust multi tool like a SAK.
A mutual acquaintance, german mechanic in L.A. was a legion veteran. Collector hurried off to him show his prizes. Fritz said "very nice, this is the knife we carried"- and pulled out a Opinel.
:lol:
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Post by KAV »

Knives are one of our most ancient tools. And in contemporary society they push a lot of buttons; good and bad. The desire for a quality, personal blade is probably hardwired in our DNA by now, or should be.
I formerly taught outdoor survival until it became a goofy sub culture in itself. People go into near panic attacks over THE KNIFE. I told students to buy a Mora,Opinel or Russell kitchen knife and every penny they could scrape together for a premium sleeping bag. I tell you, one night without real sleep shivering with some $300 chunk of steel for bedmate made lots of converts.
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Post by KAV »

For what you want a Spyderco is a great knife. Spyderco is the progenitor of all the one handed knives, still one of the simplest.I've encountered more than one knifemaker and owner I won't name who panned the company. It's called petty jealousy.
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Post by Sam »

Kav, let me know your thoughts

Composite Leek blem for $38: Maybe better steel, but the stainless handle is just so so with me. Maybe a better blade and better looking handle then the Leek that has a nascar handle - still stainless though

A Black Scallion blade and handle for $22

A Delica or some sort of Native Spyderco

A Persistance for $25 and free shipping.

I read that the Persistence steel is just so so, and maybe going up $20 is worth it? But it is a Spyderco. I could get two knives to compare for less than the cost of a new Mini Grip (around $65 shipped)

here is a list of some knives that could be gotten, all Kershaws

1550 PE Blackouts blems $25

1620H3 Scallion all black Kershaw in outlined letters Blems $22 shipped

1620VIB Scallion Rainbow finish Blems$35

1660CB Composite Leek Blem $38 Shipped USA

1660VIB Rainbow finish Leek Blems$35 shipped

1660Pink pink leek blem $29

1665 Packrat blems $39

1820G10 Blem needs work G10 scales $37 shipped

1840 Plain Shallots Blems $35 shipped

1670BLK all black Plain edge $38

1745st black G10 ener-g II blems $30
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Post by BullGoose »

I need a new box cutter but those Benchmark flick knives look pretty cool and would do the job. Do you suggest any particular model?
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Post by Dale »

Kav, do you have any experience with Al Mar knives? I would be interested to hear your take on them. Thanks.
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Post by KAV »

Al MAR knives are not my 'cup of tea.' They are first class in materials and workmanship and aestheticaly a step above many. If you like them they will serve you well.
SAM, A knife is a second because of A. cosmetic flaws or out of spec machining and fit and B. improper steel treatment, usually in the heat treating. A lot of people buy seconds and get good use. But let me tell you a story. A student brought a premium and well regarded knife to a winter class. it was one of those BIG blades that supposedly cover axe duty and can lop off heads in the heat of battle. or stab old Buick doors.
It was a second and to the naked eye just as good as one with a little cosmetic wear from use. He's batonning a billet of wood and everyone hears a PING! I knew the source immediately, doing the same thing to a Camillus military survival knive in arctic survival school. Only this knife left the bulk of the blade fractured LENGTHWISE wedged in the frozen pine, not merely snapped near the hilt. We had a metallurgist with us. He took out his loup and found the granular structure a wreck waiting to happen.
You may not need your knife in the arctic, but pass on seconds.
You list a lot of nice knives. But from my computer in California I can only tell you to select a knife in Tennessee that talks. And buy the wife a nice ladie's SAK or something. Once she's used it a dozen times she'll understand.
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Post by Sam »

Not a lot of choices in memphis. Without regard to blem how does a scallion and a persistence sound? That way I get a blade from each and the onion assisted opening system for the price of a delica and if I don't like one or the other than I can sell. The mini grip is just so cool
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Post by KAV »

That would work for you. It's real easy to throw a lot of money into knives searching for 'the perfect one.' We don't have that problem with shaving kit fortunately.
If there are any 'gunshows' locally you can see a lot of knives. Just don't talk politics, buy anything, eat the hotdogs or stare at the people there to be stared at.
I would sign up at the two forums I listed. Again, don't talk politics, buy anything...................
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Post by Sam »

I can get a used Native for $40 shipped. A Spyderco with better steel. What do you think about that rather than $25 for an entry level Spydie, the Persistence?
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Post by KAV »

If it's in good condition the used knife is a good deal.
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