Just Completed My First Shave and Have Some Questions

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sahdu
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Joined: Wed Jun 16, 2010 10:42 pm

Just Completed My First Shave and Have Some Questions

Post by sahdu »

Hey all. So last night I completed my first wet shave after getting fed up with my face getting annihilated every time I used a cartridge razor. I purchased: Merkur Hefty Long DE Razor, Taylor of Old Bond Street Lavendar Shaving Cream, Vulfix Best Badger Shaving Brush, Geo F. Trumpers Skin Food, just so you have an idea of my materials. The shave went alright; I got several nicks on my neck, but from everything I've read that's to be expected. It wasn't a very close shave but that should come with practice. I did notice a few patches that were quite smooth, so that was a good sign. My questions are as follows:

How much water should I be using with the cream? When I prepared my lather, it seemed to be much more porous than anything in mantic's videos and in pictures I've seen. I'm guessing I used too much water, but I didn't even think I used much. Any way to gauge how much I need?

I'm assuming the lack-of-close-shave mostly has to do with my blade angle. I attempted using mantic's suggestion of putting the razor flat and rotating it downward until the blade was at the correct angle. I never felt 100% sure that the blade was actually at the correct angle using this method. Is there anything I can do to ensure I'm doing it correctly and not just pushing the lather around?

When using a styptic pen for cuts, do I use it pre or post after shave?

Because it wasn't a very close shave and I needed to look presentable for work, I tidied up with an electric razor. Any reason why this may be a bad idea?

With a cartridge razor, I usually couldn't shave any more than once every two days because if I tried shaving every day I would cut myself to shreds. Assuming I'm not cutting myself due to a learning curve, should I be able to shave every day without destroying my skin with the DE razor?

That's all I have for now. Any other suggestions or tips would be much appreciated. Thank's for all the info on the forums and thanks in advance for responses to my questions.

Edit: In case it's helpful, I did three passes, all downward as described in mantic's videos. I know three passes is generally considered excessive, but it was mostly due to the fact that I had such a poor angle most of the time. Luckily, I don't feel like the three passes were in excess (i.e. other than the cuts, my skin doesn't feel irritated like it generally would with a cartridge.)
Paddywhacked
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Post by Paddywhacked »

Well it sounds like you are on the right path so far. Cream takes a bit of getting used to. I soak my brush for about a minute, give it a good shake and then add cream. I mix til I get a lather which has nice stiff peaks coming off the brush.
What kind of blades are you using?
Angle-wise, it just takes some getting used to, but in about a week you should start getting the hang of it. I wouldn't recommend trying to shave every day right now, your face needs to get used to the DE a bit. Use the stypic pen post-shave, on the areas you cut. It'll burn like crazy, but it stops the bleeding.
Hope that helps, and hang in there! It only gets better from here (or wose, if the ADs kick in)
Eric
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gil3591
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Post by gil3591 »

since you are just starting out. put the cream in a bowl and swirl a damp brush in it. add a few drops of water and keep swirling and adding water till you get the right lather.
you will be able to shave every day.
light to no pressure on the razor.
short strokes. go norht to south with a pass and then south to north. usually atg is east to west but depends on your beard, learn your beard's growth pattern.
some guys will tell you a merkur is too aggressive for a beginner but you'll do fine. get a sampler pack of blades and find a blade that works for you.

don't get too caught up in the blade angle. it's important to prevent razor burn and such but the lack of a close shave is due to you doing all your passes with the grain of your beard. that's ok for now but to get close you will need to do passes in different directions. i usually do four passes and touch-ups. you will learn that a de gets a good shave by reduction passes and not all at once like a cartridge. hope this helps
Gil
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notthesharpest
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Post by notthesharpest »

Getting the correct angle is not very difficult to explain. It's equally easy to do - though it can be a little hard to maintain when going around corners such as at the chin; you have to get used to those.
Using your cheek as an example (because the cheek is flat & easy to see):
1. Rest the razor's cap against your cheek, with the handle pointing straight at the wall. (The razor won't shave this way, because the blade isn't touching anything.)
2. Tilt the handle down, JUST until the blade comes in contact with your whiskers.
- You're done. That's the angle. You can preserve this angle quite nicely while shaving, just by keeping the cap touching your skin all the time. When the razor cap leaves your skin, that allows the blade angle to become too steep.


Styptic is a chemical that stops bleeding from small cuts. You finish up your shave, rinse & dry, and then use the styptic if & where necessary. (It stings when you get it in the right spot.) Don't rinse the styptic out of the cut; allow it to remain there all day. For very tiny nicks, sometimes a simple rinse in cold water is enough to cause them to stop.

Doing touch up with another razor is perfectly fine, as long as the touch-up razor itself doesn't irritate you. At this stage, whatever you do to get out the door with a decent shave and no injuries is legal. :lol:

I think three passes in one direction is not wrong, but probably a waste of time - one or maybe two is enough. I bet today's shave was already 90% as good as it ever got after your first pass. The fact that you didn't get irritated, however, is a good sign for you.

When you have enough practice using good lather and you have your routine working well, you certainly can shave every day. It's a process of learning your own beard and skin and how to not cause yourself problems. A few guys even shave twice a day, because they want to.

Often, people who learn good lather and good beard prep can then use what they have learned and go back and use a cartridge without irritation also.
jbc
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Post by jbc »

My opinion only, does not represent truth in any way****************

There is an old joke in Isreal that goes if you put 12 people in a room you get 144 different opinions on any one subject and/or question and this subject is no different. Personally I do not agree with the statements you have gotten before limiting the amount of water that you use. I am a for year veteran of wet shaving and what I do is to turn on the watter half way up and soak my brush under that stream then shut off the water. After shaking out some of the excess water I start in on the shave soap. I do not think that you need to limit thamount of water on the brush. I have used cream before and in my opinion you need to soak the brush under the stream of water in the bathroom then swirl it in a peanut sized dab of shave cream.

As far as the preshave goes I wouldn't bother, I have used the stuff before but really did not see the point in it.

The blade angle to the face is where you need to spend most of your time working, 30 degrees to the face. Take your time to get it right, it took me many months to get this right but once you get it you will never go back to anything else again.

As far as the Merkur hefty goes I have never owned one or used one so I am operting on what others have told me and I have been told is that they are not ideal for beginers. I would recommend a three piece such as a Tech. The tech and the hefty are weighted a bit different and the weighting can, or so I am told, make a difference. Here is a little experiment and fifty year wet shaving veteran told me - pick up your old cartridge razor in one hand and your Merkur in the other and look at the weight difference. Ideally, he said, you want a double edge that is as close to the cartridge weighting as you can possibly get. The similar the weighting the easier it will be for you to learn to use the double edge. My recommendation would be a Welshi, they are not particularly hefty. Some other newbies I have talked with like the Lord Tech and started there. The tech is very similar weighting to a cartridge razor is and is what I started on.

In closing keep up the good work it will take a while for you to get it right but you are on the right path.

This has been soley my opinion and please take it as such************
JBC
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function
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Post by function »

You have a lot of good advice here, so I'll only chime in with what I know I can add.

Don't worry about the styptic. I have used mine twice in the 6months I have been shaving, once in my first shave, once when I got stupid careless and touched my nose with my razor. The tiny nicks you get on occasion should close up on their own with use of a quality soap/cream and aftershave.

Good luck, be patient, see Oscar's(Rasco_MS) signature line.
Nick




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notthesharpest
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Post by notthesharpest »

jbc wrote: The blade angle to the face is where you need to spend most of your time working, 30 degrees to the face. Take your time to get it right, it took me many months to get this right but once you get it you will never go back to anything else again.
(See "144 opinions" above):
30 degrees is for straight razors (i.e. bare blades) only. Safety razors have their angle built in and you do not need any degrees at all.
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jww
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Post by jww »

Welcome to SMF.

For me, blade angle is all about feel rather than precise degrees of angle.

Blade angle together with proper pressure - or rather lack thereof - may well be the two most common symptoms of a poor shaving experience.
Wendell

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desertbadger
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Post by desertbadger »

Welcome to SMF!

I have always shaved by sound and feel. Regardless of the type of razor, it will let you know what you did right or wrong.

Regards,
David
Regards,
David
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Squire
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Post by Squire »

With so much already said I'll just say welcome aboard.
Regards,
Squire
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druphus
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Post by druphus »

Welcome the the forum sahdu!
Regards,
Andy
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JarmoP
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Post by JarmoP »

Wellcome to SMF sahdu. Nicks are not something you should not get any more after the few months if you keep on DE's.

Now it is normal: It is a new instrument and wielding it is strange. Too much pressure, too much angle and moving face muscles etc. It will all reward you if you keep going I promise.

Jarmo
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jbc
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Post by jbc »

Gee I am glad that someone knows more than I about blade angle.
JBC
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Post by brothers »

Hi Sadhu. Welcome to SMF! You're off to a good solid start. It's good to be able to read what the other guys say. I respect what they say, because I recognize that each one is revealing what has taken him a long time to learn what works best for him. Ultimately, you will keep on learning as you go, and you'll learn, sooner than you think, what works best for you. Keep posting. It's great to have you here.
Gary

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jww
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Post by jww »

brothers wrote:... Ultimately, you will keep on learning as you go, and you'll learn, sooner than you think, what works best for you. Keep posting. It's great to have you here.
+1 - possibly the best advise so far. :D
Wendell

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Racso_MS
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Post by Racso_MS »

Sahdu,

WELCOME TO THE FORUM, Come often and stay long...

Wet shaving is a YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) project.

Here comes the rhetoric:

Preparation, Preparation, and Preparation...
Technique, Technique, and Technique...
Let the razor do the work...
No Pressure, No Pressure, and No pressure...
Remember, It's Not a race, It's your face...
What's the hurry, Take your time "AND",
ENJOY YOUR SHAVE...

WELCOME TO THE FORUM and if you have any questions, "ASK AWAY".

Please don't be afraid to make comments, suggestions, ask for advice, criticize, or just voice your opinion. A new perspective is always welcome.

Enjoy your stay and please post as often as you feel a need.

WELCOME... :D
Best Regards From the Deep South...
Remember; It's Not A Race, It's Your Face...
And As Always, Enjoy Your Shave...
(Racso) Oscar...
jbc
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Post by jbc »

Yeah, what Gary said.
JBC
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sahdu
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Post by sahdu »

I really appreciate all the friendliness/advice I've received so far. Very helpful and it's nice to find a place on the internet where people are actually willing to help. Thanks much!

After a couple more attempts I'm still getting the expected nicks and cuts, but the shave itself is starting to get better. There is a certain spot on my neck that I seem to mutilate every time, but I'm working on bring more careful.

One thing I've noticed is that there are time where it feels like the razor catches the hairs, but is pulling instead of slicing. Is there something that I'm doing to cause this that I should watch out for? Thanks for the help in advance! I'll continue to bring questions as they come up.

Thanks again!
notthesharpest
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Post by notthesharpest »

sahdu wrote:I really appreciate all the friendliness/advice I've received so far. Very helpful and it's nice to find a place on the internet where people are actually willing to help. Thanks much!

After a couple more attempts I'm still getting the expected nicks and cuts, but the shave itself is starting to get better. There is a certain spot on my neck that I seem to mutilate every time, but I'm working on bring more careful.

One thing I've noticed is that there are time where it feels like the razor catches the hairs, but is pulling instead of slicing. Is there something that I'm doing to cause this that I should watch out for? Thanks for the help in advance! I'll continue to bring questions as they come up.

Thanks again!
There are a couple of things that cause this: one is that the blade may be contacting the hairs at too steep an angle, causing the edge to be deflected toward the skin; another is that you may be shaving "against the grain" in an area where the hairs are too long, or you just are not yet comfortable shaving against the grain. ("The grain" is the direction in which your hair grows. For example, the hair on my cheeks grows downwards, but the hair on my neck grows upwards and to the left. Never just shave mindlessly downwards or upwards, but always take into account the patterns of your own hair. Not saying never go against the grain - just saying only do so on purpose.)

- Keep the cap of the razor against your skin, which keeps the blade angle shallow; that makes sure you're cutting hair and not skin.

- Shave with the grain first in all areas of your face. If you then want to shave across or against the grain to get a closer shave, re-lather and proceed.

- Some areas will allow easy shaving against the grain on your second pass; other areas may be more difficult to do so, and you may find that in some places shaving against the grain is just no good. Always go with what works and what's comfortable.

- Because of its inherently different angles and directions, sometimes simply shifting the razor into your wrong hand can "magically" fix problem areas.

Happy shaving and good luck!


EDIT:
P.S. Of course I forgot probably the most important thing:

- No pressure!
ferroburak
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Post by ferroburak »

Use styptic as soon as possible and don't use it on lip.
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