Ever since I was a kid...

[Blue As A Jewel]

Are both your passes with the grain? If so, you need to make the second one across the grain. This does require a sharper razor than the WTG pass, but for me the only bit that will cause a problem if the razor isn't really sharp is under my chin. Sometimes I will think I have a razor ready to use and all goes well till I get to that part. Time to find out if your razor is up to it (and don't forget adequate prep to make that beard soft!)

Chris

Chris - Do you also shave against the grain? This has been my bane with my Feather - theres a couple of angles I find cumbersome to deal with...

[brothers]

Are both your passes with the grain? If so, you need to make the second one across the grain. This does require a sharper razor than the WTG pass, but for me the only bit that will cause a problem if the razor isn't really sharp is under my chin. Sometimes I will think I have a razor ready to use and all goes well till I get to that part. Time to find out if your razor is up to it (and don't forget adequate prep to make that beard soft!)

Chris

Under the chin presents the same problems for me, regarding the straights. It seems like a very awkward area to properly shave, due to the angles, etc. And as you say, the results I get from shaving this area determine for me whether my razor has been up to the job or not.

[casecracker]

I've done a couple XTG passes. I've not gotten up to doing an ATG pass, mind you. Mostly because when I position the blade to go ATG it just gets stuck in my hair and I don't want to force it through. That's why I think it's not as sharp as it needs to be...

One other question:

Is oil absolutely necessary to preserve the blade? I live in San Francisco - which basically means the complete opposite of humid. Is using oil something that's done only in humid climates or is it a vital necessity regardless?

[brothers]

My motivation for keeping a light film of oil on the blade is not climate-driven. Water causes problems when allowed to remain on bare steel, so the best way to prevent water spots or rust is for me to displace any possible water with oil. My first straight razor was the recipient of an ugly black spot when I stupidly left it out (in a drawer actually) all day following a shave, with a drop of water on it. I hate to think of leaving a bit of water, even a very small droplet, on the edge of a razor long enough for it to rust. Thus my obsession with putting oil on the towel-dried blade following every shave. That's what I do, and why.

[casecracker]

Okay, well that seems logical. Does any kind of oil work? Like olive oil maybe or do I need to get something special?

[drmoss_ca]

Ravi:
My routine shave is with and across. Given that the hair below my jawline grows sideways at the sides and downwards in the midline, I shave it by going upwards. I get the side hairs across the grain, but end up going against the grain under my chin.

casecracker:
I never use oil on my blades, and possibly should. I have solved the problem by using stainless steel razors, which I don't recommend for beginning honers. My carbon steel damascus Zowada set was spoiled by a razor going back in the seven-day box with a spot of water between the scales. Much effort to return them to their glory, and now they only venture out in the winter when the humidity is rock-bottom. Their O1 steel is capable of a superb edge, but it rusts whenever you even think about water. Tim recommends oiling them after each use, and I should have listened. My reason is that I know perfectly well that I will not be able to remove every trace from the blade before use, and my skin prefers not to have the large-scale equivalent of prick-testing done on it with those kinds of chemicals. Between seborrhoea and rosacea it has every excuse it needs to go red without me implanting long chain hydrocarbons under it!
Saving the little paper bags of silica gel that come with electronics etc is worthwhile - just toast them gently in an oven to drive the absorbed moisture out when necessary - and keep them with your razor.

Chris

[casecracker]

Thanks Chris.

I shaved again today with the 5/8 Kropp Larry Andreasson sent me. I did manage to get a closer shave, but still can't get the razor to go ATG. It snags on my beard and I have the notion that forcing it through is WRONG.

[brothers]

caseracker, I don't recall you mentioning it, but are you pursuing a sound stropping regimen before every shave?

[matt321]

For me a close shave is equal parts technique and sharpness. A dull razor will pull and tug going WTG and especially ATG. If the WTG stroke is uncomfortable then the blade is too dull. Advanced strokes are required for expert results but don't rush that. It will come much easier with time.

My razors don't rust or spot when I'm meticulous in keeping them dry. If your carefully dried razor is near the sink when you rinse your face or brush etc, then it probably has new water specs on it from the splash.

[Blue As A Jewel]

Ravi:
My routine shave is with and across. Given that the hair below my jawline grows sideways at the sides and downwards in the midline, I shave it by going upwards. I get the side hairs across the grain, but end up going against the grain under my chin.

Chris

Thanks Chris - that's sounds similar to my hair growth, and I've tried doing as you descibe... you just look so much better than I do!

[drmoss_ca]

First time hairy old Bacchus has been thought better looking than Captain Jack Sparrow!
My tricks for painless, bloodless negotiation under the chin are to lead with the point so there is some slicing going on rather than simple chopping, and to use the part of the blade near the heel, which is generally less often used and so is sharper. There's better control when the point of contact on the blade is nearer the tang. Finally, use a very low angle, almost but not quite flat against the skin.

Chris

[casecracker]

Yes I am stropping before each shave. The blade feel very sharp to the touch when I'm done, though not completely uniform along the blade. Being a newbie and all I'm not even going to try and pretend i'm stropping properly though. I did strop with abrasives today to get the blade closer to how it felt when I first received it (it was shave ready when I received it).

I think the blade is sharp enough for WTG passes and it's not uncomfortable.

I'm not having bad experiences by any means. It's just this ATG pass I can't seem to get anything accomplished.

[notthesharpest]

You can also (if you need them) get silica gel packs at Lee Valley tools (and many other tool stores too I suppose). Those ones change colour when they need heating.

The smallest ones I found are the size of a deck of cards or thereabouts, so they might not always fit where you want them.

[casecracker]

I used Irisch Moos today. Definitely a superior shave cream and seemed to make an ATG pass more possible. Still had difficulty though and am sure at this point my razor is just not sharp enough.

I was pleased on wtg and xtg results. Nice shave and definitely feel at this point confident enough to upgrade my straight razor.

I'm thinking of getting one of the Feathers...

[drmoss_ca]

I'm thinking of getting one of the Feathers...

Probably a mistake unless you feel your technique is really quite adept. (And possibly a mistake even then.) The Feather is a superb cutting device, sharper than necessary and harsh on the skin. I can get wonderful shaves, but there will be a price to pay after a few days in terms of irritation.

Chris

[brothers]

I used Irisch Moos today. Definitely a superior shave cream and seemed to make an ATG pass more possible. Still had difficulty though and am sure at this point my razor is just not sharp enough.

I was pleased on wtg and xtg results. Nice shave and definitely feel at this point confident enough to upgrade my straight razor.

I'm thinking of getting one of the Feathers...

There comes a time when one who wishes to seriously pursue the straight razor shave needs to get some hones and enter into the inevitable and unavoidable while highly enjoyable and rewarding learning curve.

Many people start out with the Norton hones. That's what I did, and obviously there are many ways to skin the cat. The way I did it was not the result of my own inherent genius. I read in the straight razor shaving forums and threads until my eyes ached and then I got a set of hones and strops and it's not difficult, but it takes passion, time, hunger to do it and do it right.

"Right" is being able to know what to do, how to do it, and in the end being able to take up the crappiest old razor and work on it for hours on end until you or anybody else can pick it up and shave easily and effectively with it, use it until it goes dull, sharpen it, and do it all over and over again.

It's no mystery why Gillette and the others before him invented the DE.

I wanted to come back and edit this comment. Some folks approach the option of sending razors out to one of many excellent so-called honemeisters, and that's what I did in the beginning, out of absolute necessity for several months. It's one way to reach the objective, and those guys are excellent. Because he's physically located pretty near my home, I chose Ken at RupRazor.

My first antique store razor was transformed from a piece of junk into a thing of lasting beauty due solely to Ken's work. It is one of my best razors.

Many folks are of the opinion that even though a guy wants to hone his own razors, that guy should experience the appearance and feel of a professionally honed straight razor. I am also of that opinion.

I suppose some guys simply do not choose to take up the honing themselves, and choose to rely upon a dependable professional routinely. That's a guess on my part, but it's obviously going to be worth the costs associated with it to the individuals involved, and that is their personal right to choose.

[matt321]

Yes, it is a great feeling to pick up an old, dull razor and make it useful again. Also it is nice to have the tools and skills needed to make your daily-use razor as sharp as needed.

[drmoss_ca]

Yes, it is a great feeling to pick up an old, dull razor and make it useful again. Also it is nice to have the tools and skills needed to make your daily-use razor as sharp as needed.

And it's going to get a lot easier to do it!

Chris

[casecracker]

Ok I'm sold. Where do I get a hone?

[brothers]

Check out the Norton Waterstone Combination Package at Peachtree. That's what I have, plus some other stuff I read about on the shaving forums.