Razors only Themba could love??

Use a straight. You know it makes sense.
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themba
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Razors only Themba could love??

Post by themba »

For many men of color, shaving can be a very difficult, or a next to impossible task:

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB. Area affected: the beard)
http://www.mamc.amedd.army.mil/referral ... rm_pfb.htm
http://www.treasuredlocks.com/pseudofolliculitis.html

acne keloidalis nuchae (AKN. Area affected: back of the neck)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acne_keloidalis_nuchae
http://www.aocd.org/skin/dermatologic_d ... is_nu.html
http://www.dermadoctor.com/article_Acne ... ae_31.html

For some, proper methods can eliminate or reduce the problems that can occur. Unfortunately for others, nothing short of growing a beard or permanent hair removal will do. I am fortunate enough to have manage to "lick" these problems within 98 percent effectiveness. Of course, that 2 percent is like having one zit on an otherwise zit free face, but that's anoher story.

So what does my rambling have to do with straight razors? Well, I solved my problems by trying everything I could, and then settling on what worked the best. The best by far have been straight razors with a safety guard attachment. "Huh??" you say. That's right, guarded straights. This includes Weck type disposable blade straights as well as real straight razors with a guard attachment. You don't hear much about these types of straight razors. Most straight razor users enjoy the shave with the open blade, and that is usually what draws them to straight razors in the first place. For most these would simply be overlooked. However, I can't afford such "luxuries". I pick my razors based on how well they help me avoid PFB. It does not mean the razors are good or bad, just that they don't work for me, like DEs and most carts. I can't afford to have my face looking like this poor soul:

Image

I used unguarded staights for a while and in the end realized that they were not for me. It was the Weck that opened my eyes to the possiblities of straight razors. I then move to "The Real" a true straight with a guard. I do not care for disposable open blade straights at all. I think the guard allows me to manage how the hair is cut, thus aiding in the prevention of that dreaded Pseudofolliculitis barbae. Also the type of blade, the angle, and the stroke used to shave, all provide the optimal effect. The only other types of razors that come close are my beloved GEM type SE razors.

Here is a pic of "The Real" straight razors I own. These are true straights, but they just have guard attachments. The first one has regular straight razor scales. The second one has a fixed rigid handle.

Image

Image

Image

Here is a pic of the Robert Fiance styling straight razor I just purchased. This has regular a straight razor blade and scales as well.

Image

Image

Image

These types of straights started life as "transitional" type straights used for regular shaving and later found new lives as hair shapers, and styling razors. The new uses they found are the reasons why many mistakenly believe that they were not meant for shaving. Many vintages advertisements attest to the fact that these types were originally used for shaving. One of my dream razors is the Durham Duplex. It remains a dream because I cannot find new blades sharp enough for my liking.

The Real and the Robert Fiance are hone, stropped, and otherwise cared for like a regular straight. WIthout the guard you wouldn't really know the difference. They also can be used like a regular straight without the guard. Now a new addiction has arisen that led me back to SMF to post again. I have sold all my unguarded straights, and now I am on the look out for more Reals, Shumates, Robert Fiance, and many other razors most of you have never heard about. That is a good thing, resulting in cheaper prices for me on ebay.
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drmoss_ca
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Post by drmoss_ca »

Welcome back, themba!

Chris
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Post by Blue As A Jewel »

How and where do you find these?? Does the hairstyling razor work on ones face?
- Ravi -

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themba
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Post by themba »

It sure does. As I said in the original post, they are just regular old fashioned straight razors, with a guard attachment. If you ever came across a Weck disposable straight razor, or similar types sold at Sally's, the principle is basically the same. You don't need to use both hands with these, since the guard helps to stretch the skin like with safety razors.

I recently missed out on this Shumate:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEDWX:IT
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matt321
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Post by matt321 »

Thanks for an interesting post.

I've seen Genco guarded straights on ebay in the past, some with the guard and some without. They seem to bid out low as I suppose few folks are knowledgable or interested in the concept.

Why are these better than a guard-less straight. Couldn't the straight user eventually learn to maintain the same angle manually?
themba
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Post by themba »

I wish guard-less straights worked for me. Once a guard is added, it becomes a safety razor type device, in my opinion. If I did not suffer from PFB, I would probably favor a guard-less straight.
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Post by bernards66 »

Thempa, Well, most of all ( remembering your very first posts on the old forum ) I am glad to hear that you've found something that really works for you....and kind of exotic too. I've seen a few razors like that but have never tried one. My experiment with regular straights did not work out and I settled back into the comfort of my decades long relationship with the DE. So, glad to hear that it worked out in the end and you can be an example for others in that, even for problem shavers, if one really searches one can usually find a combination of razor, technique, and prep that will work. Congrats!
Regards,
Gordon
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Post by CMur12 »

Themba, I've never seen such razors. What's amazing is that you found them and that they solved your problem.

I'm relieved to know that the photo above of the fellow with such a terrible case of PFB isn't you!

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TRBeck
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Post by TRBeck »

Jack (paperpundit) needs to weigh in here. IIRC, he did an extended experiment with a Fromm hairshaper a few months back and really got good results. He, too, struggles with ingrowns, etc. Very interesting stuff. I'm game to give this a whirl when funds allow more purchases.

Regards,
Regards,
Tim

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Post by paperpundit »

...and SHAZAM, Tim calls, and here I am! :lol:

Hey Themba, glad to see you around. Yes, I, too, have played around with these, and gotten great results. I like the Weck the best, in fact, I even loaded injector blades into the Weck and got fantastic shaves...

...but alas, they take too long for me. Lady Bics (the pink ones) are my current favorite, followed by a slant. I haven't found a sharp enough SE blade to give me a good, consistent shave.

But on to the Real Safety Razor...you've answered a question on this one I've had for a while. An antique store a little more than an hour from my home had one for sale, and I was stalking it hoping the price would drop...
Jack

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Post by themba »

The Real has a very interesting guard. The guard can be positioned on either side of the blade (without completely taking the guard off). This is essential when shaving both sides of the face. First you flip it up away from the blade (the second picture of the fixed handled Real shows the guard in the up position), then you give it a twist. Finally, you are able to put it down on the other side of the blade.

With the Weck, and most hair shaper types, you can accomplish this task by sliding the guard off the blade, and then facing it to the other side of the blade, and finally sliding it back on the blade.
themba
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Post by themba »

I'm relieved to know that the photo above of the fellow with such a terrible case of PFB isn't you!
Me too!! Poor fellow.
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paperpundit
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Post by paperpundit »

Themba, I had progressed to the point where I was using the shavettes unguarded. I found that by placing them nearly flat against my skin -- yes, almost the same position you would use to shave with a GEM -- the guard wasn't necessary.

Try sliding an injector blade into a hair shaper -- this was by far my favorite combination. Nice and sharp, much sharper than hair shaper blades, and just enough exposure to shave with. No guard needed.
Jack

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themba
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Post by themba »

You must have used a modified Dovo blade adapter (made for the Dovo Shavette) to get injectors to fit??

My skin is super sensitive and my whiskers lay ridiculously flat on my face, due to my tight curls. When my stubble is growing back in, I can see it "pressing" into my skin. If the tip of the whisker is not blunt enough, an ingrown hair will form for sure. Such tight curls can be a disaster when shaving. Guarded straights and GEMs are the most effective at catching such low laying whiskers. As for my super sensitive skin, an open blade makes it welt (or what I like to call Nestle Crunch) There is usually no razor burn, ingrown hairs, etc, just welts. My skin puffs up as a result of most trauma and I am also prone to keloids: (http://emedicine.medscape.com/article/1057599-overview).

It really is a wonder that I fare so well when shaving, since I am at the extreme losing ending of the spectrum. Gordon makes a good point about finding the right razor, technique and pref.

Not all people of African descent, or others with curly whiskers, automatically experience shaving problems. It is just a large percentage of them that do. I have Black friends who use Fushions, Mach IIIs, and other modern carts without incident. Many, I have recommended DEs and unguarded straights to, with success. Also, some people can save with just about anything. Lucky bastards!
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Post by brothers »

Themba, this is very interesting to me. Like most other guys, I've seen a lot of the guarded straight razors and routinely considered them to be a gimmick from many decades ago, that didn't catch on, or simply hair shapers, of no use to me. Thanks for pointing out the serious problems that a lot of guys are facing. I'm glad you have been able to find the razors that work for your situation, and that you are able to help others with similar issues.
Gary

SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
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Post by drmoss_ca »

I think it is true that PFB can be minimised by avoiding cutting hair too close to the skin, and never in a way that cuts it below skin level. This would mean shaving with the grain only, and having a light touch. Are not all these guarded razors and wire-wrapped bump-fighters just a way of achieving the same when one's technique isn't as highly developed as that of the average SMF member? Not that I would want to detract from collecting cool tools, no matter what!

Chris
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paperpundit
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Post by paperpundit »

Actually, Chris, I did three passes with the shaper and got it even closer than I could with my average DE...however, I've found that the Lady Bics give me nearly as close a shave with far less work and fewer variables than a DE has.

Since it is still in the 90s here, my mode is "get out of the bathroom as quick as possible." Once it cools, I'll go back to DEs...
Jack

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Post by themba »

I think it is true that PFB can be minimised by avoiding cutting hair too close to the skin, and never in a way that cuts it below skin level. This would mean shaving with the grain only, and having a light touch. Are not all these guarded razors and wire-wrapped bump-fighters just a way of achieving the same when one's technique isn't as highly developed as that of the average SMF member? Not that I would want to detract from collecting cool tools, no matter what!
I actually think the intended effect of the bump fighter is different than my guarded straights. For me the bump fighter razors is unable to catch some of my low laying whiskers. The result is hair left over and sometimes razor bumps. It is a tough game with this kind of hair, too close means ingrown hairs, and not close enough can mean razor bumps.
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Post by fallingwickets »

i was catching up on last weeks episode of top chef and they did a brief segment showing the one chef shaving with something very simular to what you describe here. But he only used it for his neck. For his face he used a cartridge And a mind blow......totally dry shave :shock:

clive
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