Tough Beard

MackofallTrades · Post by **MackofallTrades** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 1:27 pm

This is my first post, but I have been reading the forums for about a year now. Forgive any ignorance that you may find below.

I bought a DE a while ago and loved it. After about a year, I was intrigued enough to try a straight. I bought a new GD razor as the price was reasonable and I knew it would come honed (I realize there are arguments both ways about these razors, I am not trying to start a shouting match).

My beard is super tough, especially in the chin and upper lip and the razor seems to catch, snag and pull the hair in this area. This happened from the first shave (I know there was probably some user error, but my technique has improved alot already and I feel the problem may be the razor or the sharpness of said razor).

I love the shave I get from the straight, so I have been perservering, but when I need to shave quickly, I go back to the DE. What bothers me most is how smoothly and efficiently the DE cut my whiskers compared to the straight. The difference is amazing and makes me wonder what is wrong (me possibly?? lol).

I only have about 8-10 shaves on the straight with stropping in between. I realize I could have messed it up with poor stropping (again this is new to me), but it pulled my hair badly from the start.

The straight is a full hollow, carbon steel. Would a wedge work better on a tough beard? Should I have it honed again? Any advice to get a better shave would help. I don't really have any frame of reference for the performance of this razor, but I am concerned at how poorly it can cut sometimes.

I will probably upgrade to a different razor eventually, but for now I will keep working with what I have.

Sorry for the rant, I am just a little frustrated...

jww · Post by **jww** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:29 pm

Welcome to SMF -- since you have been lurking for a while, you will be aware that our contingent of straight razor users will be coming to you shortly with handfuls of advice.

Blue As A Jewel · Post by **Blue As A Jewel** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:36 pm

...and like zombies attracted to the smell of a warm body...

I'm new to straights as well, but if its pulling and tugging on your beard, it sounds like the razor might not have been sharp enough from the beginning -

...perserverance is the key, but I too can get a smoother shave with my DE - there are parts of my face that can be incredibly smooth with a straight (my cheeks, and oddly, my chin) - so I believe it can be achieved all over.

...and welcome

Post by **drmoss_ca** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:37 pm

Unless you are holding the razor at far too steep an angle, your sensation of tugging is caused by it not being sharp enough.

Chris

loueedacat1 · Post by **loueedacat1** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:42 pm

Get a basic Dovo from straightrazordesigns.com honed by Lynn Abrams. Those are easy to hone, and with Lynn honing it you'll know at the beginning how it should be.

druphus · Post by **druphus** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 2:45 pm

Welcome to the forum!

I'm no straight expert, so you should wait for them to weigh in; however, my straights, if properly honed do not "pull and tug". Mind you, I've gotten purportedly "shave ready" razors that did, but typically a pyramid hone on progressively finer Nortons (which is all I'm capable of) will get the razor to the sharpness of a DE.

Now chins and upper lips are all about technique. I've resorted to the DE to "finish" these areas, but that is just because I've been too lazy to perfect my technique.

P.S. - Ops, while I was composing this, a couple of straight expert have already weighed in.

notthesharpest · Post by **notthesharpest** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 3:20 pm

If you already have a good razor, then you should get it honed again by someone who will do a good job. You can send it back & forth in the mail if there isn't someone in your area.

Ecosse · Post by **Ecosse** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 4:06 pm

To the OP

There are a few things to consider (or that I would consider)

For ~$20 you can send it out and have someone re hone it, that would give you piece of mind that its sharp.

Do you have a linen and a diamond spray, or an extra strop or something to help keep that blade sharp?

Does your current strop have cuts in it? If so, go to my first statement.

You might be holding the blade too tightly and not allowing you to have it at the right angle. My blade, when I first started tugged a lot. Then had to get it rehoned. After getting my blade back and giving myself a break from the straights, I made a real conscience effort to hold the blade lightly. Now I get really good shaves from my straight.

Just my 2 cents.

loueedacat1 · Post by **loueedacat1** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 4:52 pm

Since you (with reason) suspect the gold dollar could be the issue, I'd be reluctant to put more money into having it honed, since you'll always wonder (if you still struggle) if it's the razor.

If you get a basic dovo properly honed, then you'll know (a) the razor should be fine and (b) it won't be hard to get it sharp. Also if you get it from stragith razor designs, they not only hone it but give you a free second hone.

In terms of maintenance, I'd eitehr get a coticule (very flexible - can sharpen and finish) or get a norton 4k/8k if you are trying to save money, or maybe a naniwa at those grit levels.

And you should get a good hanging strop, like from straightrazordesigns or tony miller, or if you want to save, I hear ruprazor makes good cheap strops.

matt321 · Post by **matt321** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 6:25 pm

You will be surprised how smooth the straight can be when all things are right. For the beginner it can be something of a boot-strap lift to get to that point.

I've had freshly honed razors go from pull-and-tug to smooth and sharp just by stropping. Generally stropping has a modest effect but sometimes it is dramatic.

Concentrate on keeping the blade level with the strop surface. Keep the pressure light and uniform through the stroke and uniform on the return stroke. I like to hold the spine firmly against the strop and then lightly torque the blade edge as it trails along behind the spine.

The GD's can shave just fine based on my sample, but others have had problems. If you get another razor keep the GD for honing practice.

MackofallTrades · Post by **MackofallTrades** » Thu Sep 16, 2010 7:27 pm

Thanks guys.

I have a strop and some diamond paste. I actually bought the razor from Rup Razor, so while it could be the honing, I hear he has a pretty good reputation.

I am going to try and strop it some more and shave again this week with it. Took a small break as I knicked myself pretty good (100% my fault).

The thing that kills me is that while it tugs on my chin and lip, it doesn't on my cheeks and neck. I may buy a finishing hone or norton 4k/8k and try to work with it myself. I've sharpened knives for years, so I understand the basics of it. I just need to learn the feel for the razors.

MackofallTrades · Post by **MackofallTrades** » Fri Sep 17, 2010 2:34 pm

Update: I went to a barbershop to get a shave today to see how it would feel in comparison.

The barber used a shavette (as is required anymore...) and still had a really tough time with the lip/chin.

Anyone know how to soften a beard? I always shave right after my shower, so I know that helps.

notthesharpest · Post by **notthesharpest** » Fri Sep 17, 2010 10:41 pm

MackofallTrades wrote:Update: I went to a barbershop to get a shave today to see how it would feel in comparison.

The barber used a shavette (as is required anymore...) and still had a really tough time with the lip/chin.

Anyone know how to soften a beard? I always shave right after my shower, so I know that helps.

Shower
Very hot water
Soap or soap-like substances

That's about it.

MackofallTrades · Post by **MackofallTrades** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 5:09 pm

notthesharpest wrote:Shower
Very hot water
Soap or soap-like substances

That's about it.

Yeah...I am doing that already.

Guess it is practice and more practice for me.

Thanks guys.

matt321 · Post by **matt321** » Wed Sep 22, 2010 10:19 am

MackofallTrades wrote:Update: I went to a barbershop to get a shave today to see how it would feel in comparison.

The barber used a shavette (as is required anymore...) and still had a really tough time with the lip/chin.

Anyone know how to soften a beard? I always shave right after my shower, so I know that helps.

I got a haircut at a new place (cuz I just moved to a different town). Toward the end of things the barber but some warm syrupy like stuff on the back of my neck and shaved it off with a shavette. It pulled. If that had been one of my straights I would have honed it. Also, I wonder if he ever changes the blade in that shavette.