Dovo straight vs Shavette

Post by **drmoss_ca** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:18 am

A straight shouldn't tug with the grain, even if the honing or stropping is less than perfect. Going across the grain requires a better edge, and even then there will be some sensation of the hair being cut, though I wouldn't quite call it tugging. That sensation is quite pleasurable when you are accustomed to it.
Our forebears in the 19th century shaved WTG only and found the straight fine for the job. I've only been shaving for 38 years and I'm only just coming round to the view that a good shave is one that other people find visually pleasing and which does not redden or irritate the skin, which would detract from the appearance of the shave. The habit of faceturbation is noxious, and causes us to scrape away far more than is good for us. We should judge a shave on how it looks more than on how it feels. Granted, a clever DE user can do multiple passes in many directions and using his skill can avoid irritation. But us 'umble straight shavers have a coarser instrument and must avoid irritating the skin with our blades. Once again, the old barbers' experience that a shave should be with the grain is generally correct, and for special occasions a closer shave going across the grain might be warranted. Whilst skin tolerance will vary from person to person, for many that extra-close shave shouldn't be a frequent experience, or redness will appear. If you have to stroke your face, do it with the grain. When I was very small my father would have me check his shave, and every time I ran my little fingertips upwards and declared it deficient he would tell me I was cheating and that only downwards stroking was to be used. He shaved with a DE, one pass, with the grain. He never looked stubbly or red. The stubble palpable against the grain never detracted from his appearance, and the across grain and against grain passes necessary to remove it would have perhaps caused redness that would have done so. I'm beginning to think he was right.
To go back on topic, a Shavette does a grand job of shaving, but you have to use it very carefully as it cuts so very easily. The Feather AC is much stiffer and less prone to accidental cuts, but sharp enough that if used regularly (especially if used against the grain) you may get sore skin. I used a Feather exclusively for a year between 2005 and 2006, and whilst I was very careful, I had to give up because of the irritation. A proper straight is child's play to hone for a WTG shave and far more satisfying to use. Then you can improve the honing until you can do the XTG pass with it when required. And at that point you have as much skill as most barbers in the old days, and more than the vast majority of modern barbers. And that is something about which you might be forgiven for feeling a little proud.

Chris

adl50ok · Post by **adl50ok** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 10:01 am

Chris, I have to agree completely. The quest for a BB shave invariably leads to irritation. By definition, a closer shave means taking off more skin. I have a light beard and shave every other day, and I think my skin looks better with a "mild" shave done more frequently, rather than a BB shave at longer intervals.

With the Shavette I do only WTG and have no problems. I like the fact that no special blades are required, as my stash of DE's will last me years, and I can find the blades everywhere. Still, I know I will at some point try a classic straight again. Something about it attracts me.

Alan

rsp1202 · Post by **rsp1202** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 3:25 pm

drmoss_ca wrote:A straight shouldn't tug with the grain . . .

A few simple, insightful paragraphs and I've learned a whole lot more about shaving in one sitting than in a couple years experimenting and observation on my own. Thanks, Chris.

Post by **drmoss_ca** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:55 pm

Thankee, sir. I'm chuffed!

C.

bernards66 · Post by **bernards66** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:33 pm

Chris, I entirely agree regarding multiple passes and the related bulk of your post. I shaved with a DE as your father did for many years and it was entirely adequate in terms of appearance...which I also agree is the sensible criteria for a shave. You are also correct in that, with a proper level of skill and a real quality blade, one can get away with two or three passes with a DE without irritation but it's not 'necessary' and is more of a 'shavegeek' trip....three passes certainly. And I'm also sure you are right when you say that doing the same with a cutthroat razor and getting away with it sans any irritation is much less likely. But, based on personal experiance I must disagree regarding that 'pulling and tugging' sensation. I've tried close to a dozen straights honed by four different individuals and they all pulled doing WTG passes. Some more than others but it was quite noticeable with all of them ( the Feather AC, much less so ). And I tried every blade angle imagineable...no dice.
Regards,
Gordon

Zot! · Post by **Zot!** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:46 am

I have been using a straight for a year now. I've gotten to where I can do comfortable wtg and xtg passes. After I faceterbate, I can feel the stubble if I stroke upwards. I have the feeling that the shave would look good to others. For some reason I haven't gone atg with the straight, but I finish up with a de where I can use j-hooks and the like for my jawline. I really enjoy the straight razor passes and now won't have it any other way. I am tempted to just use the straight with two passes on the weekends, but I do love the end result using a de.

JohnP · Post by **JohnP** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 3:17 pm

Gordon,
I can tell you (not so) secretly wish you could have had a better experience with the straights you tried....as it comes up in conversation a good bit.
Have you thought about keeping a straight or two around and some hones and strops, just to mess with them until they shave how you like them to?
My luck with "shave ready" has been hit or miss, but even a razor that is "close" can be brought to the "butter smooth" category.
Just a thought.

sorry for the hijack folks...

John P.

bernards66 · Post by **bernards66** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:57 pm

John, I appreciate the suggestion but I feel pretty settled with my open razor experiance. I had a similiar go 'round with fountain pens. I like them theoretically, but not experientially. In both cases I suspect that I had just been using what I use for too long to be willing to go through any lengthy 'adjustment' process since I was happy with the DEs and good ball point pens anyway. If I'd been profoundly dissatisfied with either one the situation might have turned out differently.
Regards,
Gordon

matt321 · Post by **matt321** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:40 am

Hard to argue with personal preference and experience.

For me it was easy. I changed to straight razor shaving after many frustrated years of using electric face mowers. Clam shells would have been an improvement.

bernards66 · Post by **bernards66** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 10:43 pm

Matt, There you go and I think that probably made all the difference.
Regards,
Gordon

alcx77 · Post by **alcx77** » Fri Jan 18, 2013 8:49 pm

I wanted so very much to enjoy my "shave factory" shavette but never got far into a shave at all before I nicked myself in multiple places.