The frenchy report ;-)

Thoughts and input on anything related to wet shaving or men's grooming.
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Pomination
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:23 pm

The frenchy report ;-)

Post by Pomination »

Hi all,

Well it's been a time now i'm using the DE. My experience is with bads and goods.
The fist weeks were not that good. Very well shaved but quite irritated skin. Redness and razor bumps.

After a bit of anlysis, I figured out my technique was wrong. I now no more put any pressure on the rasor and my angle is a bit more open.
I also reduced number of passes. 3 were too many for me. My skin couldn't tolerate them anymore after 3 days.
I now only 2 passes one N-S and one S-N (well in fact W-E on my neck where hairs are multi directionnals !)

I now have very good shaves with no more blood except on the moustache (litlle nicks only). I'm no more using alun block too, my skin just prefers cold water.

Anyway, I'm still gettting razor bumps (red points, not sure this is the same thng) on my neck even if they are fewer than before. Cheeks and chin are perfect and glassy.
I remarked my skin is very dry after the first pass. Razor gliding is low on second pass (probably due to the very bad water here near Paris, very hard water). I'm wondering if I should acquire shaving oil.

Any suggestion for the red points in my neck is welcome.

Cya.
mgraepel
Posts: 173
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 1:06 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Post by mgraepel »

Shaving oil isn't necessary, a mixture of glycerine and a little water will work just fine and is a lot less expensive. Also, what kind of soap/cream are you using? What are you doing for beard prep? Answer these and we'll be able to give you some more specific pointers.
Pomination
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:23 pm

Post by Pomination »

I'm using TOBS Rose shave cream. My beard prep is face cleaning with smooth soap (that has no soap, Nivea) and wetting the face few seconds with warm water. Then I'm applying the lather which I can get very nice now with practice.
mgraepel
Posts: 173
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 1:06 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Post by mgraepel »

Ah, there's probably where you're tripping up. Try really soaking the face. Following the advice of other people on the board, I typically shave after a shower without drying my face and I get some pretty smooth shaves that way. Using a wet washtowel held against your face for a minute might work better than just wetting the face. I'm sure others will chime in with their experiences as well, so keep your eyes peeled.
Rob

Post by Rob »

Pomination, would you consider using hair conditioner on your beard before shaving? I do it every time and it seems to soften my hairs a lot. I use a cheap conditioner and it works with no problems.

Just apply a thin layer of hair conditioner to your wet beard, let it sit while you're making your lather, then rinse your face and brush on your lather.
Pomination
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:23 pm

Post by Pomination »

Sure but I'm not sure of the french translation of "Hair conditioner". Is it shampoo ?
Edit : OK I found. That's what we call "after shempoo" here ;-)

The one I got is to remove knots in hair. Is that fine ?
Rob

Post by Rob »

Sorry about the translation problem. ;)

Sure, I think the after shampoo you have will be fine. As long as it softens your beard, then it is ok.
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Joe Lerch
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Joined: Sun May 01, 2005 1:20 am
Location: New Jersey

Re: The frenchy report ;-)

Post by Joe Lerch »

Pomination wrote:I now no more put any pressure on the rasor and my angle is a bit more open.
I'm not sure what you mean by this. The best angle is with the blade as flat to the face as possible, while still being able to cut. I'm understanding that a more open angle is that the blade is less flat. If so, you may be introducing irritation because of scraping.

I think these guys put their fingers on the problem. THe major issue is inadequate preparation. Try showering first and soaking the face by leeting hot water run over it for at least five minutes.

Also, make sure your lather is not too dry. It should be dry on your face before you completely finish a pass. If it is, make the lather a little wetter. If you're having difficulty, you could try lathering your brush on Marsielles olive oil soap before using your regular cream. It holds a lot of water.

The suggestion to use conditioner was also a good one, but use the type that softens the hair. When I tried it I found that there are all sorts of conditioners and not all work. For example, the type that adds body to the hair could be counterproductive. What works best is the type that softens the hair and makes it a little limp. I have found that the least expensive conditioners do this best.

Are you using beard reduction? the idea is not to try to cut to clean skin on the first pass (or first and second passes) but just to reduce the beard to a fine stubble before cutting against the grain. If you go against the grain with long whiskers, you give up control, and even if you try hard you may not be able to avoid pressure.

If you don't try to cut to clean skin early, you are keeping the razor off the skin, and you can't be irritating it. When you finally cut to skin, you have a light stubble, which lets you use the lightest pressure when you finally touch the skin. Often, those bumps are a result of irritation. Reduction may help to eliminate it.
Joe
Pomination
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Sep 07, 2006 12:23 pm

Post by Pomination »

OK Joe,

I will check how flat is the blade when I "open" the angle. It seemed to ome the right angle is when the three parts of the reazor head are aligned : top, blade, bottom. Right ?

But if the angle is too open, the blade should not reach the skin, no ? So I should not be wrong there. Closing the angle would be more dangerous.

Anyway I'm still practicing and will follow all the good adivces there. Thanks for your help.
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Joe Lerch
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Location: New Jersey

Post by Joe Lerch »

Pomination wrote:I will check how flat is the blade when I "open" the angle. It seemed to ome the right angle is when the three parts of the reazor head are aligned : top, blade, bottom. Right ?
The best angle is with the blade at its flatest.

You can find this angle by raising the handle until it's perpendicular to the skin, then reducing its angle until you can feel the razor just begin to cut. You then reduce the angle just slightly more and that's the angle you want to maintain. Shave with short , 2cm, strokes and check the angle before each stroke. Eventually, you'll be able to just maintain the angle without thinking about it. If you accidentally make the blade too flat it will stop cutting and you'll immediately increase the angle to restore cutting.
Joe
mgraepel
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Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2005 1:06 pm
Location: Portland, OR

Post by mgraepel »

Did you mention what kind of razor you are using? Is it adjustable? If so, what do you have it adjusted to? A great way to check the proper angle for your razor is to load it with a blade, tighten down the top all the way, place it perpendicular to your arm (90 degree angle), then tilt the blade towards your skin until you see the bladetouching the skin. This will give you an idea of the proper angle for your razor. I hope this helps.

*EDIT* Heh, just a wee bit too late.
bernards66
Duke of Silvertip!
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Joined: Sun Feb 27, 2005 1:02 pm

Post by bernards66 »

Pomination, I also immediately suspected the razor angle from what you wrote above. Try and follow Joe's suggestions carefully, and I suspect that the problem will diminish markedly.
Regards,
Gordon
lux
Posts: 533
Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2005 12:01 am
Location: Baar, Zug, Switzerland

Reduction pass most highly recommended

Post by lux »

Good morning fellow wet shavers,

As Joe Lerch frequently emphasizes, there is no way round a first reduction pass with the grain, unless perhaps one shaves twice or more daily.

Attempts to save time by shaving directly across or against the grain are boomerangs.

So "follow the book" and do the first reduction pass with the grain.

Kind regards,

lux
Neither this, nor non-this, nor both, nor neither.
Regnare servire est.
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