Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Needed

Thoughts and input on anything related to wet shaving or men's grooming.
NJRonbo
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Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Needed

Post by NJRonbo »

You'll have to excuse my ignorance on the refined techniques of shaving.

For most of my man years, I have been using a Mach 3 Razor.

I switched to all electric razors a few years ago, because frankly, I was tired of paying the exorbitant prices for the blade refills.

Yet, I have always been attracted to the razor that sits on a stand, alongside a shaving brush and a tub of shaving soap.

To me, that looks like the most elegant way to shave.

Yet, I know nothing about using straight razors or the right kind of shaving soap to get, or even how to apply it to the face.

I would be willing to return to blade shaving in exchange for something really nice.

Been reading this forum and kind of picked up on a couple things...

First, it seems this razor is highly recommended:

http://www.amazon.com/Edwin-Jagger-Kelv ... gger+razor

I don't know how to even insert a blade into it -- but with your help I will get there.

I am looking at either of these brand of razors:

http://www.amazon.com/Rapira-Double-Edg ... ira+blades

http://www.amazon.com/Astra-Superior-Pl ... tra+blades

I suppose this stand will do, but I am all up for buying something nicer and more expensive...

http://www.amazon.com/Perfecto-Deluxe-C ... 4KF7JSRC7N

A brush is probably the easiest thing to pick out. Would appreciate someone recommending shaving soap.

Really, I am not against spending upwards of $80 for a really nice shaving set, though I don't think the need will be there.
ShadowsDad
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by ShadowsDad »

After you get done reading the posts in response, if you haven't already, you need to spend some time reading threads in the various sections. Particularly in the university, where noobs ask for and receive help, but in the other sections also; blades, razors, soaps, etc'.

I won't suggest a razor beyond writing that there are vintage razors available also and I'll leave it at that. I simply know very little about modern manufactured razors that would be good for you. Don't forget that there are single edge razors as well as the DE razor you linked to.

I wouldn't purchase a stand until you have a brush and know what size the handle is. Many of us, and by that I mean me, don't use a stand for the brush. We just dry the brush off as best we can by flicking it and using a towel, then we stand it on end on the handle.

:-) Brush choice can be easy or as difficult as you want to make it. There are bristles made of boar (pig), horse, synthetic, and badger which is probably the traditional choice. We can, and do, go round and round on the various brush models and what they consist of. There is no right choice, but what appeals to you and what you prefer. Brushes can run in price from under $10 to nearly $1000 and they all perform the same function... the generation of lather. The $8 boar performs just as nicely in that as the more commonly found $100 - $200 badger. But badgers can cost less (and more) and boars can cost more. An truly expensive boar would be $50 thereabouts.

Blades are easy to purchase and sometimes difficult to find the right one. As with brushes no one can tell you what you'll like and works with your face. The traditional answer is to buy a blade sampler and after you know the basics of shaving begin to test various blades. They are all different. One nice thing about blades is that unlike many brushes blades are inexpensive to buy and try, and if they don't work not much money was lost. The Astras you picture didn't work for me at all, but lots of other gents love them. Blades are the hardware with the most variation of like and dislike among shavers. I could post my worst and best blades and someone else will love the things, and the same could go for me and their choice of worst, and best blades. We call that YMMV or Your Mileage May Vary. YMMV doesn't only happen with blades but with every aspect of shaving.

The market is full of soaps that work. Of course mine is the best on the market, but overlooking that self serving plug, there are lots of great soaps. Look in the SOTD or Shave Of The Day section and see what people are using. Junk doesn't get used twice.

But the trial and error isn't all loss if things don't work out. There is a buy/sell/trade section below where things can be bought and sold. There might be a time limit on how soon someone can sell things, but one can begin buying immediately. I suggest that avenue for gear. The owner will know the specifics of what he's selling and most folks here are knowledgeable. You won't be led down the garden path. If you don't like something, resell it.

I hope from what you've read so far that you realize that there is no way to predict what you'll like. We can tell you what we use, and I think that lots of times it's more looking for a confirmation of our own choices. Our best role IMO is to guide a noob away from pure junk and into something that many others have had success with. In that direction there are threads of reviewed products. They are there to give folks ideas about what they might like. You might not find them useable right now since you have no basis of knowledge, but it'll steer you away from junk.

That's a lot to digest, so for know I'll end by writing, if you have more questions ask away. We were all where you are know and understand how bewildering it can be. But we'll get you through it.
Brian

Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Brian,

Thank you so much for taking the time to write such a thorough response. I so much appreciate it.

Who would think that something so simple as shaving could be so complicated once you move away from an electric or disposable shaver...

Such as....

Right now I am trying to figure out the soap and bowl thing.

As in...

If I buy a tub of shaving soap, do I need to get a bowl to mix the brush with the soap -- or is that done in the soap bowel itself?
ShadowsDad
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by ShadowsDad »

Lots of folks use bowls but it isn't required. I used a bowl exactly twice. The very first time I lathered, and a month or so later. The 2nd time I lathered up I did so right on my face, and I suggest that for you as well. What that does is (obviously) makes lather, but beyond that the contact time with the soap and water preps the whiskers for removal. It "plumps" them up and softens them. About 3 minutes for face lathering is optimal. I just take my time and enjoy the sensuous feel of the brush on my skin. OK, another by product of face lathering, as the lather develops and water is added to the brush and then to the lather on the face the change in the lather is instantly felt.

After swapping to face lathering I tried one last time with a bowl to see if I was missing anything by not using a bowl. It was the very last time I ever used one.

And I have to get back into brushes here. The various brushes feel differently on the face, but they all work to make lather. I demand a different shave every day so I keep a rotation of 30 brushes of boar, synthetic, horse and badger and each day I use the next one in the lineup. Do you need to do that? Absolutely not!

There are gents who simplify their shaves after having found what they like, so it doesn't need to be complicated. I just make it so for myself because I had come to hate the expense and drudgery of shaving with cartridges. I never want to repeat that. I use vintage razors, mostly anyway, because I like the idea of using something that has existed for over 100 years and the wonder of "Who used this razor when it was new?".

OK, making lather. What I do is to load my brush from the tub of soap, or put an almond size piece of cream soap on my face. To load from a tub, depending on brush type, synthetics requiring a bit different method, one soaks the bristles to wet them and get them to soften somewhat. The excess water is flicked off, don't go crazy here, one just wants to get rid of the excess that will drip. Then take the brush to the bowl and swirl it around, go back and forth, push the brush down like a toilet plunger (but not down to it's base). But by one of those motions work the water and bristles against the soap to form a paste. If you use too much soap that's far better than too little. Lather was never destroyed by using too much soap. Then take it to the bowl or the face and start to move it around using swirling or brushing motions. If using a bowl add water in small amounts building lather as you do so. Don't add a lot at one time. If face lathering dip the brush tips in water and take it to the face and work it in, building lather, continue doing this until a good lather is made. A good lather is one with microscopic dense "bubbles". I like mine to be like yogurt in consistency. If you have large bubbles that's not lather but foam and if it's used for shaving you'll regret it. It has no protective qualities. But while learning to make lather you should take lather to that point so that you can recognize it. By adding more and more water you'll get that foam. Ada bit more and the foam will completely collapse. But back to good lather, brush it on skin; an arm will do. It should last for as long as it takes to shave the face. Five minutes is about right. If it's turns into a ghost of itself sooner than that it was too dry. But as a beginner one pass might last 15 minutes, don't be afraid to relather. If your shave lasts long enough to dry out your lather it's ok to rehydrate it and rebuild the lather using what remains on the brush or in the bowl. BTW, the lather for subsequent passes is held on the brush while you shave. Just upend the brush onto it's base and set it down.

Oh, shave bowls... they can be anything. I used an old coffee cup, or it can actually be a bowl from the kitchen. One doesn't need to spend money for a shave bowl. One thing I found was that I disliked a vessel that didn't have a flared top as it banged the brush.

Don't be afraid to practice lathering without shaving. It's a critical skill for shaving and really great lather will protect your skin from irritation.

Gotta run for now. There's plenty more depth on the site.
Brian

Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Brian,

You have been unbelievably helpful to me and I appreciate it.

Going to buy the razor, soap, and brush now from Amazon.

Was going to go to a badger brush, as I hear it lathers quicker and retains heat -- but I will start with an Omega Boar and slowly move up the ladder.
ShadowsDad
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by ShadowsDad »

It was my pleasure but you might want to hold off on buying anything until others weigh in. There are as many opinions about shave gear as there are folks shaving. I'm just one person.

Be aware that boars can take some time to break in. If you bought an Omega the last few that I purchased years ago were pretty much broken in after the test/wash lathering. Omegas are very inexpensive.

What soap are you thinking of? I'm not trying to pry, just trying to keep you out of trouble, not all soaps are worthy.

OK, off topic. Where are you from in NJ? I'm originally from NJ; 35 years ago, Ramsey and Pequannock, Maine for the past 35.
Brian

Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
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mrjediconsular
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by mrjediconsular »

welcome to SMF NJRonbo =D> . I myself recently have joined a few months ago and i still haven't even thought of buying a shaving brush yet and i still have to get rid of canned goo (i hate wasting things). I learned that pick the razor for the skin and the blade for the beard.also what i was told was go with an adjustable DE razor this gives you more flexibility in how aggressive you want it to be. depending on if you want to go modern or vintage these are the model names that i'm aware of (Gillette slim and fatboy). now if you want to go modern razor these are the models that i'm aware of (merkur progress and futur).i will link the sample pack i've been using. as always YMMV. good luck :D.

sample pack: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWO ... ge_o00_s00
Jordan
NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Thank you, MrJedi.

Just ordered the products I listed in my original post -- before I saw your reply.

I am certain that if I enjoy this new method of shaving as much as I think, I will be trying out a lot of products and go with your suggestions.

That Amazon pack looks great! I think it will be my next shaving order once my soon-to-arrive supply runs low.
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fallingwickets
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by fallingwickets »

once my soon-to-arrive supply runs low.
7 thumbs up on the optimism! :D

Brian gave you a really good run down that there isnt much to add upon. keep us posted on your trials and tribulations

clive
de gustibus non est disputandum
NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

ShadowsDad wrote:It was my pleasure but you might want to hold off on buying anything until others weigh in. There are as many opinions about shave gear as there are folks shaving. I'm just one person.

Be aware that boars can take some time to break in. If you bought an Omega the last few that I purchased years ago were pretty much broken in after the test/wash lathering. Omegas are very inexpensive.

What soap are you thinking of? I'm not trying to pry, just trying to keep you out of trouble, not all soaps are worthy.

OK, off topic. Where are you from in NJ? I'm originally from NJ; 35 years ago, Ramsey and Pequannock, Maine for the past 35.

I apologize for missing this the first time.

The soap I ordered is this one...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837 ... ge_o03_s00

It was recommended as a good starter soap. I am open to hearing about better soaps.

I live in Central NJ, not far from Eatontown and Asbury Park.
brothers
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by brothers »

NJRonbo, Proraso's hard to beat, very good as a starter soap, if you like menthol. Cheap and good, can't beat that!
Gary

SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
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Squire
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by Squire »

Poraso makes first rate stuff, of that I have no doubt. Not a fan of the menthol/etc. additions, but the cream works great.
Regards,
Squire
ShadowsDad
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by ShadowsDad »

I was familiar with your area 1/2 a century ago. While I know where it is, in that time everything has changed. I left for the military and the places I knew before I left changed in those 3 years. I can't imagine what has happened in 50 years to your area. I don't even go back to the towns I lived in anymore because it would be like a page out of Rip Van Winkle.
Brian

Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
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BiffBuff
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by BiffBuff »

NJRonbo, your gear and soap choices all sound excellent to me. The Proraso soap is a joy to use, as is the Edwin Jagger razor. You are off to a very good start -- slow and steady wins the race here, as in so many things. Patience will pay big dividends!
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NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Sometimes I don't know why I get the urge to do these things, but I have always been curious about shaving like a "gentleman"

Like most men, I don't really enjoy shaving. It's something that has to be done every morning. I want to get it over as quickly as possible and get out the door for work.

For most of my life, I had been using disposable razors. The Gillette Mach 3 became my razor of choice. However, the cost of the razor replacements became so exorbitant that I decided I needed a change.

Purchased a very, very expensive Panasonic triple head electric razor. Been using that for the past few years. Really, the best choice for just getting the job done. However, like all electric razors, it did a subpar job on getting the neck area shaved correctly. Always found myself having to touch the area up with a disposable razor.

The past few weeks I have been inquiring about moving to double edge shaving. I have always been fascinated by the way one applies lather to the face using a brush and then shaving with a straight razor.

None of my friends shaved like this. Most told me I was crazy for even considering to shave with a straight razor. Some called it suicide.

I took some advice from this and other shaving forums. Kind of got steered in the right direction as to what to buy and found some videos on YouTub that gave instructions on how to shave.

Today my package arrived from Amazon...

Image

Edwin Jagger Kelvin Double Edged Safety Razor, Omega Boar Bristle Brush, Proraso Soap, Astra Double Edge Razors and My Nik is sealed styptic pen.


Imagine the frustration of buying $70 worth of shaving products and then trying to figure out how it all works.


Image

I was surprised how short the handle was on the Safety razor. A sample pack of Derby Double Edge razors were included, so I tried that first. After opening the pack of razors and carefully taking the surrounding paper off of one of them, I attempted to figure out how to actually install it on the razor itself.

Screwing the base handle of the Edwin Jagger seemed to do the trick. Kept screwing the handle until the razor piece fell out in two pieces. I kind of figured out that the blade went in-between the two pieces, and I screwed it back together.

Now the soap. I don't know the best way to apply soap. I figured I would soak the boars brush in hot water, shake off the excess, and then dab it into the tub of soap. From there I would lather it up in a separate cup.

When that didn't seem to go very well, I just dipped the brush into the tub of soap and then applied it to my face.

Image

I must say, there is a certain pleasure in brushing your face with a lathered soft brush. I was able to keep dipping and lathering -- but never quite getting the amount of lathering foam I had hoped for. I suppose this is something I need to work on.

I gotta admit -- I was really scared to apply the razor to my face. I learned a few tricks from the videos I watched. First, and most importantly, was to hold the razor at an angle and GENTLY shave small portions of the face at a time (not straight down across the cheek). This meant starting below the sideburns and gently brushing small strokes downward. When I got to the lower cheek, I changed direction and brushed the razor across. Each time, in small batches and very, very gently.

The good news is that I didn't cut up my face. I did get a few red dots of blood that really didn't amount to anything. I didn't have to use the styptic pencil.

The bad news is that this definitely takes longer than an electric shave. You can't shave in a hurry with a straight razor. There is also a small type of "wart" that has always been on the corner of my face and I am afraid the straight razor is going to cut that right off. Never had a problem shaving that area with a Gillette Mach 3 blade.

I haven't yet decided whether I prefer this method of shaving. I really think I need to get it right -- and that is why I am really putting myself out here and looking for advice. It will take time to see how much closer this method of shave is. My face has to get used to the new way of shaving. For that reason I can't immediately say that it is a better shave than electric (though I know it will eventually be).

I think the cool thing about shaving with a double-edge razor is that I get to try all kinds of soaps and cool after-shave products. Additionally, I feel more confident that I can go to an important meeting without having leftover stubble on my neck that an electric razor could not eliminate.
ShadowsDad
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by ShadowsDad »

Ron, first, any first shave that you can walk away from without calling the paramedics was a good first shave. Of course I'm exaggerating. But you did OK. Eventually your shaves will take less time if you want that. I hated shaving also, but then I came to realize that a nice shave is actually enjoyable and I didn't need to run helter skelter trying to find enjoyment. I learned to enjoy my shave and that bit of "me time". Then when I was done I could find the next enjoyment of the day.

Lathering will come to you but it will take practice. I suggest practicing without the requirement for a shave. When I was learning I lathered in my palm. I still do that today if I get a new brush or soap and I want to test it before committing to using it on my face.

In order to learn to shave with a straight razor you didn't need to begin with a double edge razor. Many of the things you'll learn with a DE razor will carry over to a straight razor though.
Brian

Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
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Squire
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by Squire »

A long journey begins with a single step and you're on your way my man. Building lather and developing the muscle memory to hold and guide the razor are just a matter of time and practice. Oh, and patience as well. It doesn't really take longer to shave comfortably with a DE it just seems that way compared to the almost thoughtless way we whip around a cartridge. A DE requires more attention but a number of us here have gone for years and years without any sort of nick or scrape. I don't even own a stypic pencil.

Shaving with an electric is like cooking with a microwave in that it gets the job done in a clinical, soulless fashion.
Regards,
Squire
NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the encouragement.

Anyone want to recommend a really nice after shave? I like to have a cool feeling on the face afterwards.
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by jww »

Ron,

Welcome to SMF.

You have already received lots and lots of good advice from several gents, all of which is valid and useful.

Let me add a couple of things.

This is a journey -- it took most of us many weeks or even months, to get to a point where we were comfortable with our technique. And then, dreaded hubris sets in, and randomly we get a nick or cut and wonder what happened. So -- repeatable technique is what matter most ... take your time, learn and build your skills. Wet shaving can be one of the most incredibly self-satisfying things you do ... I love the time with a brush and razor in my hands. Best of luck as you move forward.
Wendell

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NJRonbo
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Re: Complete Newbie to Elegant Shaving: Recommendations Need

Post by NJRonbo »

Thanks JWW.

That is certainly sound advice. Appreciate the welcome.
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