Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

What kind of fragrances do you prefer?
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churchilllafemme
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Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by churchilllafemme »

This is a vintage splash aftershave from the French company Roger & Gallet. The Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille cologne was launched originally in 1806; I don't know when the aftershave was added. Top notes are bergamot, lemon, orange, and mandarin orange; middle notes are petitgrain, carnation, neroli, rosemary, and rose; and base notes are clove, myrtle, cedar, sandalwood, musk, white amber, and vetiver.

This is quite similar to 4711 but more complex and vibrant, with a richer lemon note and overall a less "synthetic" character. The scent is very natural and disarmingly simple, green, dry, and clean, not sweet at all, appropriate for both casual and business wear. It starts out quite green and citrusy, then fades to a more aromatic fragrance, smelling like a fresh countryside. My major complaint about it is that it does not last very long, essentially disappearing within an hour.

This is said to have been Napoleon's signature cologne scent. It appears to have been reformulated at some point, with the modern incarnation just like 4711 but with an extra touch of citrus and clove, while the original old formulation is said to be significantly more floral, green, elegant, and subtle. I suspect that my vintage aftershave represents the older version. It is a wonderful blend of bergamot, orange blossom, and woods, with a touch of spice.

The aftershave has just a slight burn when first applied but then becomes very soothing, probably due to the emollients it contains. It is not moisturizing at all; in fact, it is somewhat drying, which is a little bit uncomfortable and disappointing.

I bought this 240ml (8 oz.) bottle on eBay for $45. This puts its cost pretty much at a level with that of 4711, which is about $20 for 100ml. I don't believe there is a modern form of the aftershave available for retail sale, but the modern cologne costs $55-60 for 100ml.

So overall I would say that this is quite similar to 4711, with both advantages and disadvantages. It is more complex and subtle than the 4711, but it does not last quite as long and it is more drying. If these tradeoffs are acceptable to you, it is worth a try. For me it is not a top-tier product, but it is quite good, especially for warm summer days.

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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by Squire »

Got to agree with your assessment John, still it's something I'd like to try.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by EL Alamein »

John, your post is so timely for me as I just bought a bottle of the cologne version of this today. I have the 4711 and have had it for a while. I like it but 4711 has an off note to it that shows up during dry down so I haven't used it as I would have liked to. Once dried and settled it rather reminds me of the old Palmolive bath soap (green bar) in scent which ain't bad but still a bit dated in some respects.

Pining for Summer these days under constant burials in snow storms I have grown to love the 4711. I bought the R&G in the hopes that it's just slightly different enough that I can use it as an aftershave without the off-note. We'll see.

Chris
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by churchilllafemme »

I think I know what you mean by an "off note," Chris. Although I like 4711 and use it in my aftershave rotation, it smells just a touch synthetic or artificial to me, whereas the R&G smells natural. I think if it wasn't already so inexpensive, I would sell the 4711; perhaps I will end up PIFing it sometime. I'll look forward to hearing what you think of the R&G cologne. Unfortunately, my skin does not allow me to use colognes at all; but fortunately, I did find the vintage R&G aftershave.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by bernards66 »

John, Yeah, that's the old stuff and yes it is/was quite different from what they offer under that name today. R&G obtained the formula from the heir of that branch of the Farina family in the 1860s. As long as R&G remained an independent perfumer they retained the original formula. I used to use it in the cologne version and slightly preferred it over the 4711 ( which was also still independent at that point ) although they were quite similar. Unfortunately, R&G, like so many other fine old firms ( think Crown, Atkinson's, Guerlain, for God's sake! ), was bought out by one of the cosmetics corporate giants some years ago and, of course, they changed the composition of the that venerable Extra-Vielle. Enjoy!
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by brothers »

Too bad everything has to be changed for some obscure reason. I too wouldn't mind using some of the old stuff if I happen to see an old bottle in an estate sale one of these days. That's where I got my huge old bottle of 4711 ICE which I really don't use very often.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by Squire »

Just got in a sample of this stuff from John (thanks again John) and it's very interesting. Not what I remember from the Extra Vieille of about a decade back, much sharper citrus in the scent. I'll have to give it a proper review when time permits.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by bernards66 »

Squire, What you got "...about a decade ago..." was already the new/current version. The last of the good stuff that I ever found was in the early to mid '90s and that was at T J Maxx which suggests that it was already old stock.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by Squire »

Yeah, I suppose I could've distinguished it by saying the new version, it's just been that long since I purchased any Extra Vileille, except for bath soap which was fairly popular around my house for a time.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by EL Alamein »

Still waiting on my bottle thanks to never ending burials in snow. I'll let you know my thoughts once acquired.

While on this kick I decided to go ahead and get some Florida Water and some Hoyt's to boot. I'll report on those as well.

They should be a welcome antidote to Winter if all goes well, even if they only last a few minutes.

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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by EL Alamein »

Well, the R&G finally arrived today and all I can say is that smells like a weak version of T&H limes to me.

The Florida Water also arrived and got a big thumbs up from my youngest daughter whilst I was not enamored. It smells very familiar like something I've smelled in the distant past. It does smell good but just not inspiring. Still waiting on the Hoyt's.

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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by bernards66 »

T&H Lime?...really? Oh well...it always smelled to me much like 4711 only I liked it even a tad more.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by EL Alamein »

bernards66 wrote:T&H Lime?...really? Oh well...it always smelled to me much like 4711 only I liked it even a tad more.
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The R&G smelled more natural to me and not quite as lasting as T&H and we're talking minutes here for both such fragrances. Of course I'm going from memory for the T&H (though I get the lead out and actually go and dig out my bottle from storage and do a head to head) and they're not identical but very similar to me. Oddly, the R&G is a lot cheaper than the T&H so it's a good value from that perspective if someone wanted a high quality scent.

I'd love to get some of the Lavender and Thyme cologne from 4711/M&W. Should be interesting to compare it to the likes of D.R. Harris and Atkinson's.

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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by EL Alamein »

Well, the Hoyt's arrived and, yes, I ordered the 4711 Lavender and Thyme - and it came as well.

My thoughts on the Hoyt's is that it is very familiar. It conjures memories of an old uncle I had. It opens with a citrus-like blast that smells fantastic and quickly fades into something that's strong at first and then fades into that familiar uncle scent and kind of stays there. But it's not my cup of tea. Ce la vie.

The Lavender and Thyme cologne from 4711 is another story. It opens with a strong scent that is very reminiscent of the cheap perfume worn by girls at high school dances in the 1980"s. Then it intensifies like a laser into something so cloying and disgusting that it induced gagging on a massive scale. Perhaps I spent too much time in the 80's with these types of girls that wore this type of scent and I'm just having a flashback or it is truly vile stuff that deserves to be disposed of by welding it sealed in a steel container and burying it in the deepest levels of the Yucca mountain repository. Either way it got pitched before it could even enter my Chateau.

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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by JRTASTER »

Sure, Chris, blame it on the girls with whom you fraternized in your mis-spent youth1
Crossing that one off the "must have" list!
Enjoying wet shaving, again.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by brothers »

Maybe the truth is the sweetness of those memories has been subconsciously "photoshopped" over the years into something more beautiful and pleasant than the old reality.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by bernards66 »

Egad!....really THAT bad, eh? Ah..well. I rather liked the cheap scents the HS girls wore in the '60s, apparently the same scene in the '80s was not as aromatically enticing. Anyway, thanks for taking one for the team.
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Re: Roger & Gallet Jean Marie Farina Extra-Vieille AS

Post by Zemlya »

I'm an Eau de Cologne man--in the Farina tradition of course. There are many imitators, but only a few names still in production that can be considered traditional colognes. Interestingly, out of all my fragrances I often receive the most compliments when wearing either Imperiale or JMF. They absolutely wear close to the skin and an often heard criticism is that they are fleeting. However, in the summer months, when they should born, I get wafts of JMF all day. This is most noticeable when I am active like walking. Besides, there is nothing worse than a heavy cloying cologne in summer.

JMF is fantastic stuff. A word of warning for people who are interested in traditional Eau de Colognes, buy new. Natural citrus oils spoil much faster than any other type of fragrance oil.
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