first brush build
first brush build
I've been shaving with a VDH boar brush. it's the only brush I've ever had, of used. it works, but it's losing hairs. I want to make something better before it's too late. without the experience to know the ins and outs of different brushes with different soaps with the local water etc. I'm pretty much jumping in semi-blind. so I found a knot on ebay (151060990942) for pretty cheap and ordered it. it's supposed to arrive about july 1. I'm a woodworker. I'll make a handle and give it a whirl.
the knot description reads:
Grade: silver tip Badger hair
Knot diameter: 24mm
Brush Loft: 68mm
so, internet shavers, what advice have you for me.
the knot description reads:
Grade: silver tip Badger hair
Knot diameter: 24mm
Brush Loft: 68mm
so, internet shavers, what advice have you for me.
Re: first brush build
no advice here, just good wishes for your project.
your imagination is admirable!
jr/John
your imagination is admirable!
jr/John
Enjoying wet shaving, again.
jr/John
jr/John
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Re: first brush build
+1JRTASTER wrote:no advice here, just good wishes for your project.
your imagination is admirable!
jr/John
I know nothing about the knot.
Brian
Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
Maker of Kramperts Finest Bay Rum and Frostbite
Or find it here: Italian Barber, West Coast Shaving, Barclay Crocker, The Old Town Shaving Company at Stats, Maggard Razors; Leavitt & Peirce, Harvard Square
Re: first brush build
I admire those of our ranks who go down this path -- very impressive to take on this kind of project.
Re: first brush build
No advise bridger, it appears you are well on your way so please keep us informed of your progress.
Regards,
Squire
Squire
Re: first brush build
Bridger, welcome! Looking forward to seeing the new brush!
Gary
SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
- ThePossum
- Posts: 1802
- Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:20 am
- Location: Halfway between Possum Neck and Possum Holler, Pa
Re: first brush build
Welcome to SMF Bridger. Anxious to see your brush creation. I love to see what guys like you come up with when you make the entire brush. Hope it goes well for you.
Re: first brush build
handle turned, but no finish on it. the knot is just sitting in there. right now the wood is in the vacuum chamber, sucking up polyurethane.
silvertip badger, figured mesquite.
silvertip badger, figured mesquite.
- Craig_From_Cincy
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2005 11:38 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, OH USA
Re: first brush build
Nice handle Bridger! Any thoughts about what kind of finish you are going to use? Keep us posted on your progress.
Cheers,
Craig
Craig
Re: first brush build
Bridger, that was fast. I like the look of the cupped top with the knot coming up out of it like that. It's a handsome lad.
Gary
SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
- fallingwickets
- Clive the Thumb
- Posts: 8813
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:59 am
Re: first brush build
very cool....thanks for sharing
clive
p.s. do you ever make chubby type handles??
clive
p.s. do you ever make chubby type handles??
de gustibus non est disputandum
Re: first brush build
fallingwickets wrote:very cool....thanks for sharing
clive
p.s. do you ever make chubby type handles??
this is the first shave brush I've made.
I have made lots of tool handles, knife handles, even razor handles. I am definitely open to making handles for others. I'm a woodworker by trade. it's what I do.
Re: first brush build
Craig_From_Cincy wrote:Nice handle Bridger! Any thoughts about what kind of finish you are going to use? Keep us posted on your progress.
the finish is the same polyurethane used to stabilize the wood. I'm not generally a fan of poly, but in this case I want the wood completely encased. I'll glue in the knot today. pics at 11.
Re: first brush build
glued the knot. I set it pretty high, but the hole flares up and out at the top which should provide some support for the bristles after it blooms.
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Re: first brush build
Beautiful. Hope you enjoy it.
Best,
Chris
“Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?”
― Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
Chris
“Isn't it enough to see that a garden is beautiful without having to believe that there are fairies at the bottom of it too?”
― Douglas Adams, The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy
- Craig_From_Cincy
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Sun Jul 10, 2005 11:38 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, OH USA
Re: first brush build
I received a question about the vacuum system I use to impregnate the wood with finish. I'll answer here.
commercial vacuum systems can be purchased from quite a few vendors- they can be as simple as a $20 brake bleeder pump from the car parts store or as complicated and expensive as you want. I'm a tinker around and make it work from found stuff kind of guy- I use an old refrigerator pump for a vacuum pump- it works fine for that and the price was right. I have it plumbed with vinyl tubing and air hose fittings. I do have a separation chamber to keep stuff from getting sucked into the pump, but no gauges or valves or anything. the tank is a pickle jar with an air fitting set through the lid. I think that I have less than $10.00 in the whole setup.
put the wood parts in the pickle jar, cover them with poly and weight them down so they stay submerged. hook up the vacuum and watch the air bubbles come pouring out of the wood. leave it under vacuum until no more bubbles come out- probably a few hours. then remove the vacuum and either let it sit at room air pressure or apply a little air pressure- the seal on my pickle jar won't hold over about 10 psi. leave it like that for a while for the finish to be drawn into the wood. it takes the finish longer to travel through the wood than it took the air to- just leave it for 24 hours or so. then pull out the parts and let them dry. it will take longer to dry than you think. there are some heat-cured resins available that can be ready in a half hour or so, if you want to go that route.
I'll get some pics of the system and post them here.
commercial vacuum systems can be purchased from quite a few vendors- they can be as simple as a $20 brake bleeder pump from the car parts store or as complicated and expensive as you want. I'm a tinker around and make it work from found stuff kind of guy- I use an old refrigerator pump for a vacuum pump- it works fine for that and the price was right. I have it plumbed with vinyl tubing and air hose fittings. I do have a separation chamber to keep stuff from getting sucked into the pump, but no gauges or valves or anything. the tank is a pickle jar with an air fitting set through the lid. I think that I have less than $10.00 in the whole setup.
put the wood parts in the pickle jar, cover them with poly and weight them down so they stay submerged. hook up the vacuum and watch the air bubbles come pouring out of the wood. leave it under vacuum until no more bubbles come out- probably a few hours. then remove the vacuum and either let it sit at room air pressure or apply a little air pressure- the seal on my pickle jar won't hold over about 10 psi. leave it like that for a while for the finish to be drawn into the wood. it takes the finish longer to travel through the wood than it took the air to- just leave it for 24 hours or so. then pull out the parts and let them dry. it will take longer to dry than you think. there are some heat-cured resins available that can be ready in a half hour or so, if you want to go that route.
I'll get some pics of the system and post them here.