Protecting the SMFII (and any wood handled brush)

[javyn]

I am getting some damage on my SMFII, as can be seen here. Would any of you gents recommend something that I might be able to appy on the wood handle to protect it a little more? I don't know why the brush is doing this; all I can guess is when I set it down after lathering, but I do set it down on the counter as gently as possible. I store the brush on its stand.

I was recommended a polyurethane varnish in the SOTD thread a while back. (Sorry, I forgot who told me about it.) Which one would be best to get?

I'd like to keep this looking good new as long as possible Thanks a bunch!

[Kalypso]

Something used by custom knife makers is to seal wood handles is Super Glue. Yep, it's basically liquid plastic & it will seal the wood & even bring out the grain color slightly....you can even apply multiple coats after each one dries.

[rtaylor61]

Something used by custom knife makers is to seal wood handles is Super Glue. Yep, it's basically liquid plastic & it will seal the wood & even bring out the grain color slightly....you can even apply multiple coats after each one dries.

Several of the straight edge razor scale makers (in their restoration) are using super glue to coat the scales. It's an interesting idea.

Randy

[javyn]

Thanks for the ideas guys....would either the super glue or poly darken up where that finish has flaked off so it would blend in better?

[Kalypso]

Thanks for the ideas guys....would either the super glue or poly darken up where that finish has flaked off so it would blend in better?

If it were me, I would get a 6x6 sheet of 400-1000 grit sandpaper & sand off the other finish to bare wood (make sure it's totally dry first). I would then apply about 4 coats of super glue.

If you really want to go nuts, you can get some wood-finishing Hydrogen Peroxide...you only mix it prior to use & the mixture is VERY dangerous (burst-into-flames-while-on-a-cloth-without-movement)!! (The stuff you get at Wally World is 3%, this stuff is like 86%). Put this on a bare wood handle & the grain will come alive...sand & do the Super Glue the next day & you will have a one-of-a-kind handle.

This is only provided as an obsrvation of something I have done sucessfully myself...if you choose to do this precedure, you do so at your own risk...YMMV & Sam is my lawyer (I hope)...lol!

[Gramps]

I suggest you e-mail Bernd for advice.

If you choose something that is not compatible with the finish Shavemac uses, you'll have a worse looking problem.

- Gramps

[ShavetheBadger]

One of the main draw backs of a poly finish is that once they are scratched, even if you recoat, it will still look like scratched plastic, which is what it is. DEspite showing the cracks below, poly will provide a water barrier.

The problem with stripping and refinishing is that you need to sand all around the edge of the bristles and you need to provide a nice even coat of finish to get a good look. Pain is that without restripping, you can't get an even finish.

Polymerized Tung oil is a quality finish, and the good thing about it is you can repair spots that are damaged. The layers will bond and the scratch is actually repaired.

Super glue is also a good finish, but it is crystal clear and I don't know how it will look without stripping.

The lighter spots on your brush are where the finish has seperated from the wood and air has filled the small voids.

To address the best finish for a wood brush, I've worked with several finishes and coat all of my wooden brushes with Polymerized Tung Oil. It provides a clear finish which is easily repaired and is as water/damage/abrasion resistant as a poly if properly taken care of.

Matt

[McNutt]

Mine looks similar and the damage is only on the part of the handle that makes contact with the counter. I set my brush down on the counter many times a day and I don't know how well any finish will hold up against that.

[clownjuggles]

I would suggest using a nitrocelluose seal. That is what I believe we already have on our brushes. That is the same kind of stuff used on guitars.

here is some stuff that is pretty good. http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5524

[Cliff]

Something used by custom knife makers is to seal wood handles is Super Glue. Yep, it's basically liquid plastic & it will seal the wood & even bring out the grain color slightly....you can even apply multiple coats after each one dries.

That's correct. I have several custom knives and small Japanese style tanto's who's handles and scabbards are done in superglue. Fantastic finish. Depending on how many coats you apply, it can have a real deep finish....and it wears like iron. I sugest practising first on a spare piece of wood to get your technique down pat.

Cliff

[cigar-&-Shave]

Some people have a lot of pristine looking shave gear, stuff that looks like it has never been used (and probably hasn’t)… they look more like show pieces than shave gear. You on the other hand, John, have a brush that is a “working brush”. It gets used everyday, and looks like it too! Be proud of that worn wood finish; flaunt it at every opportunity. Go ahead and scoff at those other guys with their trophy brushes that never get used. Don’t be a gun fighter with a pretty gun – be a gunfighter with scuffs and notches on your weapon of choice – the SMF II brush!

Go get’em, Cowboy! Yeeeehaaaa!

[javyn]

Thanks for all the replies....sorry I haven't been around to post more but I am a working man now, and just don't have the time.

I don't really care about the finish coming off the brush as far as looks go, what concerns me is the wood eventually rotting or something, ruining my brush.

[Sam]

Thanks for the ideas guys....would either the super glue or poly darken up where that finish has flaked off so it would blend in better?

If it were me, I would get a 6x6 sheet of 400-1000 grit sandpaper & sand off the other finish to bare wood (make sure it's totally dry first). I would then apply about 4 coats of super glue.

If you really want to go nuts, you can get some wood-finishing Hydrogen Peroxide...you only mix it prior to use & the mixture is VERY dangerous (burst-into-flames-while-on-a-cloth-without-movement)!! (The stuff you get at Wally World is 3%, this stuff is like 86%). Put this on a bare wood handle & the grain will come alive...sand & do the Super Glue the next day & you will have a one-of-a-kind handle.

This is only provided as an obsrvation of something I have done sucessfully myself...if you choose to do this precedure, you do so at your own risk...YMMV & Sam is my lawyer (I hope)...lol!

Well, sir, actually the lawyer for your estate!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sam

[Kalypso]

Thanks for all the replies....sorry I haven't been around to post more but I am a working man now, and just don't have the time.

I don't really care about the finish coming off the brush as far as looks go, what concerns me is the wood eventually rotting or something, ruining my brush.

The finish coming off will let moisture in the wood & rot will slowly ruin it. The super glue will seal the wood & prevent any rot...the more coats the merrier. And it is hard as nails too....I've never had one chip on a SG sealed knife handle & that's been over years of use.

And, thanks Sam...I've never actually had a decent lawyer (I paid one who actually changed his phone #)!

[ShavetheBadger]

Another thing to keep in mind is that Cocobolo is one of the oiliest (sp?) woods available. It is a pain in the ass to glue cocobolo, so much so that most suggest wiping the surface down with Acetone before gluing. I recently had a vendor refuse to treat a piece of cocobolo with his stabilizing product due to the oil content.

It is very water resistant by nature, unlike most woods in North America. If the brushes are true cocobolo, it is very unlikely that they will experience any problems with moisture unless neglected or abused. A simple wipe at the end of the shave should be fine, even with a damaged finish.


Matt

[Sam]

I looked at my SMF1 and it is doing the same as the SMF2 brush pictured. As long as I do it no harm, I have no problems as Ren said with it showing some "character". I just do not want to harm the brush as far as it getting wet and somehow destroying the handle. I do love the rich color of the handle and want to protect that, but I also have no qualms that the brush is not to be looked at but used and it will show some wear and tear.

Am I ok? Or do I need to consider having someone strip it down, and then somehow fix it with a better sealant? If that happens, will the richness and depth of color remain or will it somehow be a different color?

Sam

[z]

John,

My SMF II is the same. I noticed it around the medalion within a week or two of starting to use it. It didn't take long at all for it to begin showing wear in other spots as well. I've just let it go, personally. I suspect that everyone's looks about the same.

Might be worthwhile for one of us to personally ask Bernd what he thinks. We can probably at least learn what he used to seal it. Even though I don't think that the water is going to do any real damage to the wood over time, as long as it is dried after each use, it certainly does take away from the pleasing looks of the brush.