Newbie questions regarding aggressiveness

[DMC1982]

Hi everyone,

Glad to be a part of your group! I am 33 years old and since I started shaving only ever used four-blade cartridges such as Mach 4 or Quattro's. About a year ago I switched to CVS brand 4-blades since they seemed to be more consistent manufacturing quality at about half the price. Then, about a month ago I was interested in switching to Dollar Shave Club, Harry's, etc. but was recommended by some friends to give a DE razor a try. So here I am!

Last week I picked up a Merkur Model 180 long handle and ordered a sample set of blades which includes Lord Super Stainless, Big Ben Super Stainless, and a couple others. So far I have used the razor three times and I'm reasonably happy with it... it is certainly no worse than a CVS cartridge but it's also not as close of a shave as I was expecting. I am using Cremo Creme and also tried some Shave Secret oil (not too impressed with that). I'm definitely still in the technique-learning phase so I know I need to keep at it and be patient.

With this handle and these blades, how do these rate on the sharpness and aggressiveness scale? I want to know where I fall right now so I know what else to be trying. What are examples of more aggressive handles, if there is such as thing?

I'm willing to spend a few bucks to find the right combination. I feel like the blades sit a bit too deep in the Merkur (so not as close to my face as I expected), but maybe that is how a DE works?

Are there other blades I should be trying? I hear Lord makes good blades for the money and I see there are also Platinum and Super Chrome. Maybe I have low-end blades and I would see a difference with better blades.

Any advice is appreciated!

[BeatlesFan]

Welcome to SMF. Here you will find some very gracious and knowledgeable people who will be able to assist you with any aspect of learning traditional shaving.

I think a number of other people will offer you loads of advice about blade angle, pressure (or lack thereof) and proper DE technique. Or you can learn a great deal just noodling around, with particular emphasis on SMF University (which frequently fields questions of this sort).

Consequently, I'll just limit myself to three targeted points:

--- You mentioned thinking that the blade was not adequately exposed. Merkur, in general, has a reputation of having a fairly hefty blade gap, so I don't think you need concern yourself about that. Unlike a cartridge, the DE blade works in conjunction with the head and the safety bar to provide an integrated cutting device. In short, your razor has plenty of exposure (although, if you are shaving very long hair, say, more than 3 or 4 days, you might want to use an electric trimmer to reduce the beard before shaving).

-- Blade samplers are fine, but the problem is that they leave you messing around with blade variables before you've gotten your basic technique in place. And using the right blade is VERY important in acquiring DE skills. If I were advising you, I'd say pick a blade that is pretty universally liked, and just stick with it for awhile. The one that comes to mind for me is the Personna "Hospital Use" aka "Med Prep" blade. CAUTION: Personna makes a bunch of different blades and the Hospital Use is very different from some of their other offerings. I'm not pressuring you to buy from this particular vendor, but THIS is the blade I'm talking about: http://www.westcoastshaving.com/Personn ... hgoduXkOzA
There is very wide agreement on SMF that this blade is both sharp and very comfortable. Consequently, I'd advise you to get that blade and use it exclusively (change it every 3 or 4 shaves) until you've mastered technique. I'll be glad to send you a few to get you started, if you PM me.

-- I'm not a fan of Cremo Cream, but others do like it. Very soon you're probably going to want to branch out on that. For me personally, if you don't want to step up to a brush/soap situation just yet, I can highly recommend Rasoine by Molinard. But there's a million choices, and others will offer you great advice about your cream choices. Anyway, just bear in mind that there is a whole world beyond Creamo-Cream.

Good luck as you check out the world of DE shaving. It's a very achievable goal to master this type of shave, but it is true that you won't get an optimal shave immediately, and there is a learning curve. Not too steep, though, and loads of help available at SMF whenever you ask for it. Cheers and all the best.

[ShadowsDad]

Welcome to the forum!

You've been given some pretty good info so far, but I know nothing about Rasoline.

Cremo Cream is OK, but not great IMO, and you hit the nail on the head with Shave Secret, it's just junk. You could use mineral oil and have a similar result IMO. Some of us think that it is MO.

There are lots of soaps that are good to great and they need not break the bank to find a good one. You might even find a few locally. There are areas in the forum with reviews and the SOTD section always lists soap used and such. No one uses a terrible soap more than once. I find the mail order sources to be the best place to get products.

As already suggested, spend some time in the Shave U'. Most of what you need is found in there. We here for questions and guidance if you need something that you can't find, need more depth, or just want to chew the fat.

[DMC1982]

Hi guys, thanks for the warm welcome! I suspect, that like everything we can be passionate about, there will be many different answers but a few things with general consensus that I can focus on. I will follow your advice and continue to read as much as I can! I'm looking forward to upping my shaving game with your help!

Andy

[brothers]

Hi Andy, and welcome to SMF.

[nicodemus38]

a lot of aggressiveness can be attributed to the razors gap, the persons skin type, the quality of the soap/lather being used, pressure and angle of the razor on the persons face.

Suitability of the soap to the persons skin type is hyper critical.

[CMur12]

Welcome to SMF, DMC1982! Glad you found your way here.

A single blade may not shave quite as close as a multi-blade cartridge, but that also reduces the incidence of razor burn, razor bumps, and ingrown hairs. We get closer shaves using multiple passes, relathering between passes, and approaching the beard from different directions: With the Grain (WTG), Across the Grain (XTG), and sometimes Against the Grain (ATG). This ultimately gives us more control over the final results.

Developing Technique: When your blade angle isn't just right, you can end up scraping, rather than achieving a clean, efficient cut. This can make the razor seem more aggressive and the blade duller than they in fact are. As your razor skills develop, your shave will become closer and cause less irritation.

Rating the razor you have purchased, I would place it slightly to the aggressive side of moderate. I have very sensitive skin and a Merkur with a fixed head is too aggressive for me. Most members here probably see it as moderate.

You don't mention making lather with a brush, so I don't know if this is something you want to do. If you don't, a product I find to be excellent is Oliveology Gel. It's a cross between a gel and a liquid, and it forms a very thin coating on the skin. Even so, it provides excellent glide, amazing protection, and a close shave. You can order it at http://www.oliveology.com . (Note that I have no connection with, or personal interest in, the Oliveology company. I just bought a bottle of the product when it was first introduced and it has impressed me.)

- Murray

[DMC1982]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the thoughts and direction! I've been reading a lot on the SMFU page and seeing some similar questions to mine.

Here is what I have done so far:
Ordered an Omega 100% pure badger brush
DR Harris Arlington Shave Cream
Edwin Jagger shaving soap bowl

I've never used a brush before so really looking forward to that experience.

I will keep using the Astra blades I have in my razor so that I can work more on technique before I try switching up blades.

Anyone care to suggest a good shaving soap that I might try when the Arlington is used up? My face is not particularly sensitive with good complexion however I am pretty fair-skinned with dark beard hair so I have yet to be able to get away with only a 2-pass shave pattern. I literally have to go against the grain if I want to have an acceptable shave for work/ formal events. However perhaps with a better shave regimen and technique maybe I can reduce the frequency of ATG (3-pass for me) shaves.

Andy

[mrjediconsular]

Hey DMC welcome to smf I can't help you with the soap other then stay away from van der hagen deluxe soap it provides some glide but no cushion but ymmv. You will probably be stuck doing the three passes but maybe a different blade could help get a closer shave but I would stick with one blade till you have your technique down

[ShadowsDad]

If you have a Bath and Body Works near you they have Bigelow cream and that works acceptably. Another generally available product is Kiss my Face shave cream. Be sure it's the shave cream and not their moisturizer. It's really good stuff and very underrated IMO. Neither of these products will break the bank. KMF is found at natural food stores and such or at least that's where they are in Maine.

Probably the best bang for the buck is ARKO from Turkey, but to get the best price it needs to be bought in bulk. Send me your address and I'll send you one and a few other samples. The ARKO soap is just shave soap with nothing for the skin, the samples will correct that. ARKO is scented with citronella, the samples of after the shave I'll send are something other.

PM me with an address to get what I told you. Don't put it out for the public or you'll get spammers. I will never approach you beyond this; my word of honor, no strings attached. Just enjoy.

[jww]

Welcome to SMF. Lots and lots of good advice so far.

Consider DR Harris soaps -- they are all excellent, my favourites being Arlington and Lavender. Also consider MWF. If you are patient and give it the respect it requires, you will get excellent lather and shaving results.

I wouldn't over-think this. In the end, the learning curve is a time of experimentation as well. You don't need to spend a ton of $$ -- many of us have used essentially the same setup for lengthy periods of time without switching soaps, brushes, etc. If you want a suggestion on brushes, I would recommend the Kent BK4 -- best all-round brush money can buy, in my opinion.

Good luck and keep us informed on how you get on.

[Squire]

Hey Andy, welcome aboard. Just keep posting about your progress and we will add input as things progress.

[DMC1982]

Hi Everyone,

Well I have completed my first week of DE shaving. So far so good! Here are my thoughts and observations so far:

- Sticking with Astra blades so I can work on technique before switching up blades. I'm changing the blades every other shave just to keep it consistent. Eventually I will see if I can go three/four shaves between changes.

- Using DR Harris Arlington shave cream and mixing in a Edwin Jaeger bowl - Makes a great lather, smells good, love it - BUT I can I can only make once pass before my face dries out and I have to reapply the cream. For example, let's say I just finished shaving with the grain, and I wash and re-lather. Now I am across the grain. Once I make my first pass over a section of my face or neck, if I come back to it a couple seconds later, the blade with skip over my face because there's no moisture or lubrication. I've gone too try. I have to dip my hand in water and wipe it over the area in order to go over that area again if required. Is that normal? Or would shave soap allow for some slickness to remain so I don't have to re-lather that section every time I need another pass?

- The shave quality is overall fantastic, can't believe how close a shave I can get now and I don't feel stubble even into the evening sometimes! Wow!

- Shaving takes longer than with cartridges and Cremo Creme but I can deal with it - wake up ten minutes earlier for a better shave and less irritation seems worth it

- My neck is the hardest part to shave, requiring both up/down vertical passes and horizontal passes. But that's how it was for me with cartridges as well.

- So far, I find I have to make three passes - with the grain, across, and then against if I want to get a really good close shave. However my skin is not particularly sensitive or getting irritated so no complaints. I was hoping with DE I could avoid against the grain but perhaps that's just how my face is.

Thanks everyone for your help so far, looking forward to keeping this up and shaving like a real man

Andy

[jww]

Sticking with one setup while you develop your technique. I recall staying with the same setup for at least a couple of months before I started to experiment. It helped create a baseline where I could go back to -- especially when hubris set in. And believe me, it certainly will set in.

Great to hear of your progress .... stay with it --- patience in shaving, like most things, pays off enormous dividends in the final experience.

[DMC1982]

Thanks JWW,

Is it normal for the cream/lather to only provide good lubrication for a single pass with the blade? Like I said above, if I am shaving one section, say my left cheek across the grain, and I move back to an area already shaved to make one more light pass over it, there is literally zero lubrication left, my face is dry, and the razor will jump/skip. I'm not used to this when using cartridges with lube strips and other shaving creams in a can.

Again, I'm using DR Harris shaving creme with a boar brush and mixing in a cup.

If that's typical, I just have to understand it and learn how to avoid it.

Andy

[ShadowsDad]

Andy, relather using what's left on your brush or in your bowl to do so. If it's dried out a bit it's OK to refurbish the lather to make it right. When your technique matures and if your lather was rich enough just a few drops of water on the dry skin will bring back enough of the ghost of the lather slickness to allow a stroke or two. If your light handed razor technique gets to a certain point there is enough lather left on the skin that a second stroke or pass can be done immediately. The soap remaining will be extremely thin, but that's all that's required. For now, relather. Never touch blade to skin without lather... for now. But again, make it rich enough and with the right light razor touch and all it will take is a few drops of water rubbed over the dry skin to bring back slickness (no cushion).

You'll find the first lather to be the thickest, and subsequent to be thinner because the whiskers that held the thicker (depth) lather are gone.

[jww]

What Brian said.