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Agressive razors?

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Agressive razors?

Postby Gedep » Wed Dec 28, 2016 3:17 pm

Hi there,

It's been a while since I visited the forum. I've been saving with a safety razor for about two years now. I use a Merkur razor, usually with Taylor of Old Bond Street (sandalwood) and Derby blades.
Today I bought a blade try-out package with several different blades (Feather, Derby, Merkur, Personna Platinum, Timor).

I read on the forum something about Merkur being a agressive razor (the razor itself, not the blades). Didn't know I had a agressive razor. It sparked my curiosity about other razors. Maybe someone could shed some light on this?

Arjan
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby slackskin » Wed Dec 28, 2016 5:09 pm

Surely someone smarter than me will give you a truly authoritative answer. But as I have it - - -

Aggressive has to do with the sum total of several characteristics -- the gap between blade and baseplate, the blade exposure (i.e. how much the blade sticks out beyond an imaginary line connecting the baseplate and cap, the curvature of the blade itself, the angle at which the blade contacts the skin, etc. Some razors are considered more aggressive, such as the Muhle R41. Others are considered more mild, such as Edwin Jagger DE89 and Feather AS-D2. The best one for you as an individual is the one that provides a comfortable and close shave, not the one that inflicts the maximum amount of pain you can tolerate.

Just my two cents worth.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby CMur12 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:20 am

Hi Arjan and slackskin -

An aggressive razor shaves closer while a milder razor spares sensitive skin. Where each one of us draws the line between aggressive and not aggressive is different.

I think most would consider a fixed-head Merkur moderate and an Edwin Jagger slightly to the mild side of moderate (some even consider it mild). I have very sensitive skin, so both of these razors are too aggressive for me to use regularly. A Merkur Progress on its lowest setting works well for me.

- Murray
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby Gedep » Mon Jan 02, 2017 5:17 pm

Thanks for commenting on the subject.
I use a safety razor for a while now. Still have ingrown hairs now and then. I thought maybe due to the aggressiveness of my razor. I use a Merkur 23C.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby CMur12 » Mon Jan 02, 2017 5:34 pm

Arjan, ingrowns can be from shaving too close, which could come from a razor that it too aggressive for your skin and beard. It could also come from a subconscious tendency to press harder and/or get the blade angle wrong in a certain spot, which is most common towards the bottom of the neck.

Do you experience any razor burn/irritation, otherwise?

- Murray
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby cpool222 » Mon Jan 02, 2017 11:42 pm

You could try a Gillette Tech or a Schick Krona for a milder, smoother shave but both still give a nice shave, just not aggressive.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby Gedep » Tue Jan 03, 2017 1:44 am

Sometimes a little razor burn when I'm in a hurry.
The ingrowns are often single hairs, mostly on the jaw bone. The other day I pulled a hair out with a pair of tweezers that was about two cm long. Curling up under the skin.
Sometimes on the neck, but they don't tend to grow so long underneath the skin.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby brothers » Tue Jan 03, 2017 8:51 am

cpool222 wrote:You could try a Gillette Tech or a Schick Krona for a milder, smoother shave but both still give a nice shave, just not aggressive.


Arjan, I think you should try to get your hands on a Schick Krona! A good razor, but not aggressive, and still pretty common to find.

PS: I located the thread you started here on SMF about 6 years ago, and its a really good reference point for several of these questions, packed with a lot of thoughtful posts from the members of SMF. Here's the link: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=45797&hilit=ingrown
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby Gedep » Tue Jan 03, 2017 4:20 pm

I know. I read it back indeed, however aggressiveness of the razor itself wasn't really discussed then. I didn't know then it could be an issue.
My God, has it been six years already...
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby CMur12 » Tue Jan 03, 2017 6:18 pm

Arjan, if you could get a vintage Schick Krona, I think it would be ideal. It is mild, yet still effective. Adjusting to a Krona after your Merkur wouldn't be very difficult.

The Gillette Tech is very mild, and it requires very exact control of blade angle to get an effective cut. Compared to what you are using, the Tech would feel like it is difficult to get it "under" the whiskers to cut them off. This razor (an old favorite of mine) would require more adjustment to your technique.

- Murray
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby StGeorge » Thu Feb 09, 2017 1:07 pm

Personally I believe there's a lot of fluff and nonsense spoken about "aggressive" and mild razors. I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, the worst combination. I've tried many razors and "aggressive" razors don't give me closer shaves, in fact the Gillette Tech gives me the closest shaves I can get bar one, the Merkur 34C Slant bar. Used properly a Tech can shave really close and with no irritation at all, nothing to do with mildness or agressiveness, just good technique and preparation. The slant is also exceptionally mild in terms of irritation if used properly, and nothing shaves me closer. It has very shallow angle like the Tech but the scything motion of the blade is more effective at chopping whiskers. You do need to be a little more careful with the Slant but it's not the monster it's made out to be. It's no wonder so many people get nicks and cuts dialling their adjustables up to 8 or 9 etc, it's just not necessary in my experience and is guaranteed to give you razor burn if you're not careful. The best razors have shallow heads in my experience, this allows you to get a really shallow angle which will shave you as good as anything. When you think about it, the more you increase the angle the more the tip of the blade is dragging across your skin, that's where the problems start in my experience. I've been DE shaving for a long time and "aggressive" razors are just hype and machismo, give me any Tech head and I can get as close a shave as you'd want no problem.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby cpool222 » Sat Feb 11, 2017 1:11 pm

I agree that the Tech is an overlooked razor. Some razors, though, do seem more aggressive to me, so I guess it's just another case of opinions varying on everything :) I think the GEM Micromatic Open-Comb single edge razor is one of the more aggressive razors, but used as it's shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUG2B_-D0d4
I almost never even get a nick with it. Be careful, though, because you might fall in love with single edge razors, and there goes your budget again! =P~
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby StGeorge » Sat Feb 11, 2017 3:08 pm

cpool222 wrote:I agree that the Tech is an overlooked razor. Some razors, though, do seem more aggressive to me, so I guess it's just another case of opinions varying on everything :) I think the GEM Micromatic Open-Comb single edge razor is one of the more aggressive razors, but used as it's shown here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUG2B_-D0d4
I almost never even get a nick with it. Be careful, though, because you might fall in love with single edge razors, and there goes your budget again! =P~


I think the term "aggressive" is a misnomer, though I understand why it's used. The problem is that many noobs to DE shaving naturally think a wider setting will give a closer shave. Well it might, but it's going to come at a cost with the blade dragging across your skin. I can pretty much get a decent shave with a slant and any blade which is half decent, which is almost all of them. Not because it is "aggressive" (because it isn't), but because it is highly efficient. Any steep angle on a blade causes me irritation and doesn't necessarily give me a close shave. I couldn't use Derby's in a normal razor, they tug too much, in a slant they work very well, like pretty much any blade, I'm not sure why this design is not more popular, possibly because slant's have an undeserved reputation for "aggressiveness". Continually changing razors is also not a good idea in my opinion, use one and learn it well, it's a variable that you don't need to keep changing.
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Re: Agressive razors?

Postby BPman » Sat Feb 11, 2017 9:04 pm

Yes, IMO some razors are more aggressive than others whether it be blade gap or exposure. I for one do not like any OC razor as the feel of the teeth on my face are annoying and they are generally, notice I did NOT say always, more aggressive. Personally, I love any Gillette Tech razor, but as well I can get a great shave from a Feather Popular.
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