SCRATCHES ON PLASTIC GILLETTE BOXES

Let's talk about single and double edged razors and the blades that they use.
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rickcaron2008

SCRATCHES ON PLASTIC GILLETTE BOXES

Post by rickcaron2008 »

HI ALL...I WONDER IF ANYONE HAS A CREDIBLE IDEA ON HOW TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM PLASTIC, SUCH AS THE PLASTIC BOXES OF GILLETTE?.....THANKS........RICK
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gil3591
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Post by gil3591 »

you won't remove the scratches. best you can do is hide them a little. try lemon pledge. spray it on and litely buff it off
Gil
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Squire
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Post by Squire »

I wouldn't bother Rick, just going to toss it when empty anyway.
Regards,
Squire
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druphus
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Post by druphus »

You could use - first "buffing compound/next "polishing compound" - to buff them off. Depending on how deep the scratches are it could be quite a job.

Would recommend using a dremel tool unless you are very patient.
Regards,
Andy
rickcaron2008

Removing scratches

Post by rickcaron2008 »

Thanks very much for your help guys.....i think i am going to try the buffing compound method, what can it hurt. The plastic is on a collectible Gillette product...Please see the pics........Rick
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druphus
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Post by druphus »

That's big enough to use a small car-buffer. Be sure to secure it well, so the buffer doesn't throw it across the room!

Or, you could do it by hand with a rag. Probably don't need anything but polishing compound because it doesn't appear to be that scratched.
Regards,
Andy
rickcaron2008

for the help

Post by rickcaron2008 »

thanks andy......rick
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Gatorade
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Post by Gatorade »

Stop, don't use the buffing compound or any power tools. Go to an auto parts store and look for PlastiX. It is made for plastic. Specifically it is to polish the plastic headlight covers so they aren't dull. Use it just like a car wax with a rag. Don't press too hard, support the plastic from underneath maybe with a cloth covered block that will fit inside the rim of the cover.
--Charlie
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Duct Tape
rickcaron2008

ok

Post by rickcaron2008 »

thanks charlie i appreciate the heads up!!!!!! sorry LSU here!!!! :-)
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Gatorade
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Re: ok

Post by Gatorade »

rickcaron2008 wrote:thanks charlie i appreciate the heads up!!!!!! sorry LSU here!!!! :-)

Geoux Tigers! Love that the crystal will stay in the SEC family. Will love it even more if Saban gets denied!
--Charlie
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Duct Tape
rickcaron2008

COLLEGE POLITICS

Post by rickcaron2008 »

OH MAN......i don't even get started on good old down south sports!!!! :D :?
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Gatorade
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Re: COLLEGE POLITICS

Post by Gatorade »

rickcaron2008 wrote:OH MAN......i don't even get started on good old down south sports!!!! :D :?

I know the feeling! In 2008 I sold one of my brushes to help pay for my ticket to the BCS Championship Game when it was here in Miami.
--Charlie
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Duct Tape
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Pauldog
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Post by Pauldog »

Another respected plastic polish is Novus. It comes in 3 grades - 1 is more of a polish than an abrasive, 2 is light to moderate, and 3 is strong. With a deep scratch, you'd start with 3 and follow up with 2.
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Seamaster
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Post by Seamaster »

There is a compound called Polywatch, which is used to remove light scratching from acrylic watch crystals. The alternative — believe it or not — is toothpaste. Try it, but be patient. It can take up to half an hour of persistent rubbing to remove even light scratches/hazing.
brothers
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Post by brothers »

I've had occasion to address scratches on vintage shaving brushes made of plastic. Before I epoxy the new knot in place, I use a series of grits of "wet-or-dry" sandpapers, usually starting out with 600 grit, then graduating to something like 1000, 1200, or 1500 grit, then finishing with 2000 grit, and as a lubricant for the sandpaper I like to use Flitz polish I got at the hardware store. After the 2000, I use a rag to polish the entire handle with Flitz. The last one I restored was just a week ago, for a family member's Christmas gift being given by a daughter to her dad (my son). It came out looking brand new, if I do say so myself. I guess you can say my system is tried and true.
Gary

SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
rickcaron2008

THANKS TO ALL

Post by rickcaron2008 »

WOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN SO MUCH HELP I CAN'T BELIEVE IT......THANKS SO MUCH......
GARY DID YOU USE YOUR METHOD ON CLEAR PLASTIC??
brothers
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Re: THANKS TO ALL

Post by brothers »

rickcaron2008 wrote:WOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN SO MUCH HELP I CAN'T BELIEVE IT......THANKS SO MUCH......
GARY DID YOU USE YOUR METHOD ON CLEAR PLASTIC??
No, I haven't used it on clear plastic. I will be interested to see if anyone else has removed a scratch in clear plastic. I am not recommending mine on clear due to the sandpaper. It might be better to ignore the scratch. I can see the possibility that on clear, doing something involving abrasives might make it look worse instead of better.
Gary

SOTD 99%: Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, soaps & creams, synthetic / badger brushes, Colonial General razor, Kai & Schick blades, straight razors any time, Superior 70 aftershave splash + menthol + 444
rickcaron2008

plastic

Post by rickcaron2008 »

thanks gary......happy new year
rpk
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Post by rpk »

Hi Rick,

I'll second the recommendation on Novus plastic polishes. I've used them for years on a variety of plastics with good results. Initially picked them up or acrylic display cases that had scratches. You can read about them at their website here. The #2 polish is the one I use the most, and likely the best fit.

Another product I use is Brillianize. This is more of a finish polish that puts a protective coat on the surface. Non toxic and does a great job shining and protecting surfaces.

Take care,
-Rich
rickcaron2008

scratches

Post by rickcaron2008 »

thanks rich...i need all the help i can get.......happy new year
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