SOTD April 13 - April 19, 2020

[Mike R]

Monday

Brush: Made Rite Pure Bristle #5
Cream: Trumper Sandalwood
Razor: '54 Z2 Super Speed
Blade: Feather
A/S: Family Dollar Brut clone
Cologne / Fragrance: Sung Homme

Mike

[TRBeck]

Muehle brush
Cella Bio soap
Rockwell 6S
Med Prep #1
Cella Bio a/s

First use of these relatively new Cella products. Vegan soap. Great lather and shave. More details to come.

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Monday, 04/13/2020

Day 2 of my time with the Brass TAR (Tom’s Adjustable Razor), and all I can say is wow! I’d always liked my Gibbs Adjustables despite the razor blade modification required. My only negative was how light they were requiring me to focus on both tremor control as well as technique. The issue was somewhat mitigated with my repaired Rex Ambassador. The additional weight helped somewhat, but the narrow sweet spot sometimes makes it difficult when doing the back of my dome.

The beauty of this razor is that it checks several boxes for me. First is that I rally like open comb razors, thus my affection for my French Le Coq Cage head and Famex razors. I love the open combs on both razors, but particularly like the slight adjustability of the Famex. The issue is that both razors are still relatively light. Second is the broader range of adjustability with the TAR, much wider than the Famex. After yesterday’s shave, I felt more confidant cranking the TAR up to 4 for today’s first pass on the face. I did readjust it to 3 for that first noggin pass.
But the final box is the beautiful 156 gram (rounded) weight, allowing me to fully concentrate on shave technique.

The shave itself was a pleasure. I used Evans’s (@MrEE) Badger/Boar hybrid brush. The knurling on the handle completely negates any handle slipperiness. It built a beautiful lather with one of my favorite mentholated cream soaps, Kapo, which is manufactured in Bulgaria. Since it already contains some slight mentholation, I only needed to add three drops of M-Bomb to get it to the appropriate level of iciness. With the TAR set on 4 it mowed down my whiskers on the first ATG pass to the skin line except for a few of the usual places - around my Adam’s Apple. After readjusting it to 3 it took care of my dome stubble with the same level of aplomb - again leaving some rough spots in the usual places on the back of the head.

My final ATG buffing pass at 3 cleared the stubble around the Adam’s Apple with the exception of a very minor weeper below it which stopped following the post shave wash with Glyce glycerin soap. I set the TAR to 2.5 for my final ATG dome buffing clean-up. The real joy for me in this shave was my ability to completely focus on shave technique. The weight of the razor eliminated any need to think about tremor control. The noggin second pass was completed bloodlessly. Thank you TAR for another beautiful BBS. I feel clean, smooth, cool and refreshed. Stay safe and healthy out there! All the best to everyone!

RAZOR: Brass Version TAR (Tom’s Adjustable Razor)
BLADE: Suneko (2)
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: MrEE’s Aluminum Handled Brush w/ Badger/Boar Hybrid Knot
CREAM: Kapo Fresh salted w/ 3 drops of M-Bomb
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and finished with Murray and Lanman Florida Water AS/Cologne Splash

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Tuesday, 04/14/2020

My third shave with the Brass TAR included some changes. I dialed it up to 5 for the first WTG pass face shave and swapped out the Suneko for a new blade. I never shave more than twice with any DE blade. I still did the dome at 3, which seems to be the maximum exposure I can handle for the noggin. I just received a 26mm Super High Density Two Band Badger Fan knot from Maggards and mounted it on one of my two empty ferrules for the Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute brush. For my soap I selected Declaration Grooming’s Sellout which is one of their milk steak base soaps that I really enjoy. Even this olfactory idiot can recognize the strong citrus notes in the soap, so I decided to pair it with Old Spice Fresh Lime AS Splash.

After soaking the new knot during the shower, I began my shave with my usual cold water rinse. The new knot generated a beautiful thick, yogurty lather from the soap, presalted with the usual 6 drops of M-Bomb. I find that I have much more control of my face shave than I do with the head shave. 5 on the TAR worked well for the face shave, but to avoid set-down errors on the back of the dome, I dialed down to a much more manageable 3 for the noggin scrape. In any case the TAR mowed my whiskers right down to the skin line on bothe face and dome, except for the usual problem areas in that first WTG pass. One thing I will note is the wonderful post pass skin feel provided by this milk steak soap base. After lathering up again, the second and final ATG pass consisted of little more than clean-up of the problem areas with the TAR, which remained at 3 for both passes.

5 is definitely close to the limit for my face shave. The alum picked up some heat around the Adam’s Apple, but remained cool for the head shave assessment. All in all, another great shave with the brass TAR. I finished the shave with a cold water wash of both face and noggin with the milk steak brush squeezings. Great stuff! The Thayers WH felt great and followed the cold water wash. Old Spice Fresh Lime completed a spectacular TAR DFS++ shave. Sensitivity around the front of my throat prevented achieving a full BBS, but there are no complaints from yours truly. Still another great shave from the TAR. I feel clean, smooth, cool, refreshed, and more than ready for my first sustained outing in the TR6 this morning. Take care and stay safe and healthy out there!

RAZOR: Brass TAR (5,3)
BLADE: Suneko
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute Brush w/ 26mm Super Dense 2 Band Badger Knot
SOAP: Declaration Grooming Sellout (Milk Steak Base)
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with brush squeezings followed by Thayers WH and finished with Old Spice Fresh Lime AS Splash

[TRBeck]

Muehle/Rudy Vey synthetic
Cella Extra Extra Bio soap*
Rockwell 6S razor plate #5
US Personna Medical Prep
Cella Extra Extra bio a/s*
TdH Eau Intense Vetiver**

*new product to my den
**stunning flanker of a favorite, Terre d'Hermes, this one dials up the vetiver and dials back the cedar. Still ample citrus, albeit brighter than TdH.

[Actor07]

Darwin Standard Razor and Personna 74 blade.

[Mike R]

Tuesday

Brush: Made Rite Pure Bristle #5
Soap: QED Sandalwood
Razor: '54 Z2 Super Speed
Blade: Feather
A/S: Family Dollar Spice Scent
Cologne / Fragrance: Old Spice (Current Formulation)

Mike

[Mike R]

Wednesday

Brush: Made Rite Pure Bristle #5
Soap: Tabac
Razor: '54 Z2 Super Speed
Blade: Feather
A/S: Barbasol Brisk
Cologne / Fragrance: Canoe

Mike

[TRBeck]

Muehle 25mm synthetic
Homemade vetiver soap
Rockwell 6S DE plate #5
Personna Medical Prep
Lucky Tiger aftershave
TdH Eau Vetiver Intense

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Wednesday, 04/15/2020

Well today marked my first shave with the aluminum TAR. It was a less-than-illuminating experience. I have never been a fan of light razors, because they make it difficult to maintain ‘negative pressure’ for me. However, after three shaves with the brass version, which worked beautifully for me from the first shave, this shave was somewhat acceptable and bloodless. I shaved my face with the razor wide open at 6 and my dome at 4. My major complaint was that I had to concentrate on managing my tremors while also focusing on shave technique, and consequently did not end up with the level of closeness that I seek in a shave. Now don’t get me wrong, many would be happy with a good CCS. It just doesn’t ring my chimes.

The shave began with a cold water rinse. I selected Palmolive shave cream for today’s shave. The Alpha Shaving Brush with its super dense 26mm Two Band Badger again generated a thick, yogurty lather. I really like the feel of this brush on both face and dome. The first WTG pass with the Aluminum TAR didn’t clear away the whiskers like the brass version, even wide open. I also noticed that the razor didn’t feel as slippery as the brass version. Whether this is an artifact of the guncote coating, or simply reflects my attempt to balance shave technique and avoid positive pressure with this light version is open for discussion. In any case, two and a half passes later at 4 (XTG, ATG, ATG) and I was still left with numerous rough areas, some in places I normally have no problem with.

In conclusion, I’m hoping that my shaves will improve with this aluminum version. Out of frustration, an hour later, I lathered up a fifth time and tried my new SS Hawk V3, which arrived yesterday from Italian Barber. I loaded up a Feather Super blade, and you guessed it, buffed away all the roughness till I had my BBS. The new SS Hawk V3 has a slimmer head than my aluminum Hawk V2, and works much better for me. A quick application of Cremo Post Shave Cooling Balm sealed the deal! We’ll see how the aluminum TAR performs tomorrow, but now, in addition to feeling clean and refreshed, I now feel smooooth!

RAZOR: Aluminum TAR (6,4)
BLADE: Suneko(1)
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute with 26mm Super Dense Two Band Badger Knot
CREAM: Palmolive Shave Cream
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and finished with Fine Accoutrements Fresh Vetiver AS Splash

[Mike R]

Thursday

Brush: Omega 13522 Pure
Cream: Imperial Leather
Razor: '54 Z2 Super Speed
Blade: Feather
A/S: Family Dollar Spice Scent
Cologne / Fragrance: Old Spice

Mike

[TRBeck]

Muehle 25mm synthetic brush
Homemade blue cypress soap
Rockwell 6S razor on plate #5
Personna Medical Prep day #5
Thayer's Original Witch Hazel
Victorinox Swiss Army Classic

Magnificent.

[Mike R]

Friday

Brush: Omega 13522 Pure
Cream: Arko Sensitive
Razor: '54 Z2 Super Speed
Blade: Feather
A/S: Mem English Leather All Purpose Lotion
Cologne / Fragrance: Mem English Leather

Mike

[TRBeck]

Semogue Mistura Taj Resin
Homemade blue cypress ss
Rockwell 6S razor plate #5
Personna Med Prep blade
Thayer's witch hazel - aloe
Prada Luna Rossa Carbon

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Friday, 04/17/2020

This is my last shave with the Aluminum TAR. My shave today - 48 hrs after my first shave - was designed to see if longer whiskers would have any impact on the utility of this razor for me. The answer is no, even with a fresh Suneko blade, and even with my stalwart, MWF. I even fell back on PAA’s Preshave Soap. It’s clear to me that heavy razors are my preferred shaving tool.

The shave itself, after the first two passes (WTG, XTG) set on 6 and 4, was not going the way I like. So I removed the blade from the aluminum TAR and installed it into the brass model set on 4. What a difference! I realize Tom will never be producing these razors, but I would buy this brass model if it were available in a second! That third ATG pass did the trick. It sheared right through my whiskers, and left me with my desired BBS.

I understand how some of my predecessors on this pass around liked the aluminum model. My preference is clearly the brass model due to its weight. In fact, if I owned it, I know it would become my preferred adjustable. I really like the open comb head design and it’s weight which make shaving with it for me a joy! Not having to think about my tremors makes this razor a winner for me.

RAZOR: Aluminum TAR (passes 1&2) Brass TAR (pass 3)
BLADE: Suneko(1)
PREP: Cold water rinse followed by PAA’s Preshave Cube Soap
SOAP: Mitchell’s Wool Fat
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with brush squeezings followed by Thayers Lavender WH and finished with Fine Accoutrements Snake Bite AS Splash followed by Cremo Cooling Post Shave Balm

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Saturday, April 18, 2020

I grabbed one of my fat handled Techs to join @brit and @jtface in their Gillette Tech shave party. It’s been quite some time since I’ve shaved with this razor. After a week of shaving with the TAR razors, it felt like I was adhering to Monte Python’s adage, “Now for something completely different!”. The razor weighed in at 62 grams, so roughly equivalent to the aluminum TAR weight wise, but the head geometry is quite different - safety bar versus the Famex-influenced open comb TAR design. The handle is also slimmer on the Tech. Given the rounded OC TAR design, riding the cap with the Tech would prove to be a no-brainer.

I selected MWF as my soap of choice along with my new 26mm Two Band Badger Fan knot for the Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute brush. After my shower, I began the shave with my usual cold water rinse. The brush knot is honkin’ huge in comparison to my other brushes, and generated a very healthy, thick, protective lather. I loaded a Feather blade and had at it. The razor sang as it cut on that first WTG pass. After lathering up again, the second XTG pass cleaned things up nicely, leaving my usual rough spots around the Adam’s Apple, and on the back of my head. The third ATG pass cleaned things up nicely, leaving me with a very acceptable DFS++ shave. Alum revealed some serious heat around the focus of that final pass, the usual rough areas. Nevertheless, I feel clean, acceptably smooth, and refreshed.

RAZOR: Gillette Fat Handle Tech
BLADE: Feather
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Alpha Shaving T-400 Tribute fitted with 26mm Two Band Badger Fan Knot
SOAP: Mitchell’s Wool Fat
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with brush squeezings followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Aqua Velva AS Splash (Spanish Version) and finished with A&E Post-Shave Serum

[jgreenepa]

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SOTD Sunday, April 19, 2020

My wide body cap from Karve Shaving arrived a few days ago. Although I enjoyed my Tech shave yesterday, I wanted a DE shave with a heavier blade holder, and the Karve Christopher Bradley razor at 111 grams with the Wizamet Super Iridium blade fit the bill. I’ve always enjoyed this razor! It was the first modern artisan razor I purchased after 50 years of shaving with my trusty Schick Krona. My only gripe was the exposed blade tabs. Yes, I was one of those spazzes who unerringly would nick his ear with the exposed tabs every couple of shaves. As a result I stopped shaving with it as frequently as I used to, and as I accumulated more razors, the frequency of use diminished even more. With the new wide body cap, my gripe goes away.

For today’s shave I selected Sterling Obsidian soap and AS Splash. I normally shave the Karve with a D-OC baseplate. The look of the razor has changed eith the new top cap, but the shave is still as excellent as ever. This razor is definitely going back in the regular rotation. While not in the same weight class as the brass TAR, it still delivered my desired shave. The Jayaruh #343 Synthetic generated a great cooling Glacial Obsidian lather. The wonderful Anise smell reminded me of the delicious cookies my Italian grandmother used to make when I was a boy. The weight and balance of this razor in hand make its use a delight. That first WTG pass mowed my whiskers right down to the skin line. One more ATG clean-up pass was all she wrote, and as a friend of mine from Atlanta is fond of saying, “put the baby to bed”! The result was an effortless BBS that easily passes the cotton ball test. I feel clean, cool, smooth, and refreshed.

RAZOR: Christopher Bradley w/ D-OC
BLADE: Vintage Polish Wizamet Super Iridium (1)
PREP: Cold water rinse
BRUSH: Jayaruh Synthetic #343
SOAP: Stirling Glacial Obsidian
POSTSHAVE: Cold water wash with Glyce Glycerin soap followed by Thayers Lavender WH and Glacial Obsidian AS Splash. Finished with Cremo Cooling Post Shave Balm

[CMur12]

Sunday night:

Razor: Rockwell 6C (on setting/plate 2)
Blade: Treet Dura Sharp

Brush: Semogue 1305 (boar)
Soap: Tim's Soap, Prototype S6

Lather made on top of the soap
Two-and-a-half passes

Aftershave: Cold water rinse and Thayer's Peach Witch Hazel

- Murray