How to Replace the Bristles in a Shaving Brush
How to Replace the Bristles in a Shaving Brush
I've replaced old knots in two vintage brush handles now, and both transplants have been successful. I'm sure gents with more experience will have additional suggestions, but I can vouch for the following method.
Here's an Opal brand brush whose handle I like, but the knot was a poor performer. It was so thinly packed, I was able to poke my calipers in there and measure the socket, even without removing the old knot first. Then I ordered a new silver-tip knot in the proper diameter.
You can enlarge a socket and install a larger knot if you want, but I thought the original diameter looks nice on this handle.
First, give it a haircut. Get as much of the old bristles and glue plug as you can, without risking damage to the handle.
The glue plug is clearly exposed now.
Carefully drill 4 holes in the plug, in a cloverleaf pattern. Mark the drill bit at the depth where you want the new plug to sit. I went down to the thickness of the new plug, so the glue wouldn't show, but the maximum length of bristle would be exposed. In this case, that would give a taller loft than the original knot, but I thought that would be fine.
Begin removing glue with a small, extremely sharp chisel. Don't hurry. Keep the handle (and your fingers) safe.
Test the fit of the new plug when you get close to the right depth (which you know by the depth of the drill holes). In this picture, I still have more old glue to remove.
When you're very close to the right depth, begin to make the bottom of the hole smooth and level. At first you can use your fingers as a guide; feel for rough or high spots and remove them with the chisel. To finish, place the new knot in the socket. If it rocks back and forth, that means there's a subtle high spot to take down. When the new knot sits firmly in the socket, at the depth you want, you're done with the chisel.
That looks and feels just right.
Time to glue in the new knot. I'm using two-part epoxy optimized for plastics. The Sharpie will color in any chisel marks in the black interior of the socket.
I like to mix epoxy on something non-porous and disposable. Empty food packages can be perfect for this.
Estimate the maximum amount of epoxy you can put into the socket, and not have any come squirting out when you insert the new plug. You don't want any on your new bristles.
Razorburned wrote that you can put a band of masking tape around the bottom of the bristles to protect them from excess epoxy; I found that made it difficult to know for sure that the plug is in the socket perfectly straight up-and-down. I just take everything very slowly and carefully. No problem so far.
Voila! A brand new, vintage brush. Check the epoxy package for the curing time. Don't cheat!
Now, you try it. Let me know how it goes. Post some pictures.
--Glenn
Here's an Opal brand brush whose handle I like, but the knot was a poor performer. It was so thinly packed, I was able to poke my calipers in there and measure the socket, even without removing the old knot first. Then I ordered a new silver-tip knot in the proper diameter.
You can enlarge a socket and install a larger knot if you want, but I thought the original diameter looks nice on this handle.
First, give it a haircut. Get as much of the old bristles and glue plug as you can, without risking damage to the handle.
The glue plug is clearly exposed now.
Carefully drill 4 holes in the plug, in a cloverleaf pattern. Mark the drill bit at the depth where you want the new plug to sit. I went down to the thickness of the new plug, so the glue wouldn't show, but the maximum length of bristle would be exposed. In this case, that would give a taller loft than the original knot, but I thought that would be fine.
Begin removing glue with a small, extremely sharp chisel. Don't hurry. Keep the handle (and your fingers) safe.
Test the fit of the new plug when you get close to the right depth (which you know by the depth of the drill holes). In this picture, I still have more old glue to remove.
When you're very close to the right depth, begin to make the bottom of the hole smooth and level. At first you can use your fingers as a guide; feel for rough or high spots and remove them with the chisel. To finish, place the new knot in the socket. If it rocks back and forth, that means there's a subtle high spot to take down. When the new knot sits firmly in the socket, at the depth you want, you're done with the chisel.
That looks and feels just right.
Time to glue in the new knot. I'm using two-part epoxy optimized for plastics. The Sharpie will color in any chisel marks in the black interior of the socket.
I like to mix epoxy on something non-porous and disposable. Empty food packages can be perfect for this.
Estimate the maximum amount of epoxy you can put into the socket, and not have any come squirting out when you insert the new plug. You don't want any on your new bristles.
Razorburned wrote that you can put a band of masking tape around the bottom of the bristles to protect them from excess epoxy; I found that made it difficult to know for sure that the plug is in the socket perfectly straight up-and-down. I just take everything very slowly and carefully. No problem so far.
Voila! A brand new, vintage brush. Check the epoxy package for the curing time. Don't cheat!
Now, you try it. Let me know how it goes. Post some pictures.
--Glenn
- ThePossum
- Posts: 1802
- Joined: Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:20 am
- Location: Halfway between Possum Neck and Possum Holler, Pa
Glenn,
Nice set of instructions and great pix. Looks like this is something great for the "do it yourselfer" among wet shavers. I for one would not try doing this simply because I do not have the patience to take my time while removing the old knot and when you install the new one.
Just one quick question. Why did you not use some type of epoxy that was designed for use with water. I have seen others who have refurbished their own brushes and they have always used some type of marine epoxy to hold the knot in place.
By the way, that handle is great looking. You are a lucky guy to have found it in such great looking shape. Hope the "new" brush works well for you
Nice set of instructions and great pix. Looks like this is something great for the "do it yourselfer" among wet shavers. I for one would not try doing this simply because I do not have the patience to take my time while removing the old knot and when you install the new one.
Just one quick question. Why did you not use some type of epoxy that was designed for use with water. I have seen others who have refurbished their own brushes and they have always used some type of marine epoxy to hold the knot in place.
By the way, that handle is great looking. You are a lucky guy to have found it in such great looking shape. Hope the "new" brush works well for you
Not to be too obsessive, but why not try a Forstner bit in a drill press. Done correctly with the brush handle well clamped, this should result in a perfectly bored hole with a flat base. These bits are also available in metric sizes, so it may be possible to come very close to the desired knot diameter.
Steve
Steve
- GA Russell
- Posts: 3070
- Joined: Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:15 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Thanks for the comments, gents.
Regarding the epoxy, it was a hard decision. I chose the water-resistant, plastic-friendly formula because, on the other brush I did, the handle is hollow, and there isn't much contact area between the plug and the handle. I thought it best to maximize the strength of the bond, and not leave it immersed in water.
--Glenn
Bryce, you make a good point. This took almost 2 hours (including stopping for pictures), and that's not how everybody wants to spend Sunday afternoon. Your method -- sending the components to a professional -- is a fine solution; you still get the brush you want, but you don't blow part of your weekend on it.ThePossum wrote:...Looks like this is something great for the "do it yourselfer" among wet shavers...
...Why did you not use some type of epoxy that was designed for use with water...
Regarding the epoxy, it was a hard decision. I chose the water-resistant, plastic-friendly formula because, on the other brush I did, the handle is hollow, and there isn't much contact area between the plug and the handle. I thought it best to maximize the strength of the bond, and not leave it immersed in water.
Why not? Too easy. Well, seriously, I think that could help shorten the time significantly. I don't have access to a drill press, though.SteveK wrote:Not to be too obsessive, but why not try a Forstner bit in a drill press. Done correctly with the brush handle well clamped, this should result in a perfectly bored hole with a flat base. These bits are also available in metric sizes, so it may be possible to come very close to the desired knot diameter.
It's another one from The Golden Nib. The next handle I refit will be an EverReady 500T, and like yours, the knot is smaller than I'm used to: 18mm. It's a stocky handle, so I'll probably enlarge the socket and install a 22mm knot. Wish I had a drill press for that!DavidB wrote:Where'd you get the knot? I have a pristine Ever-Ready badger brush just like the one my dad used, but the brush head it not that great a quality. It is also very small by today's standards.
--Glenn
Bryce worked with a forum member who does business as "The Knotty Badger." I get the impression from Bryce that the brush turned out well.GA Russell wrote:Does anyone do this professionally? I have a good handle that needs its badger loft to be replaced.
--Glenn
I agree Steve, I did one last week using a Forstner bit on a thirty year old Rooney and it took approx. 30 seconds. And that was without clamping it,slow speed on the press , and another minute or so to fine tune it with a drum sander in the press. Piece of cake ! Now if I can only get a smallish boar knot to mate with it , I'll be in business ! By the way that was a great tutorial , you'd be every dad's wish on Christmas eve ! .......................BedrosSteveK wrote:Not to be too obsessive, but why not try a Forstner bit in a drill press. Done correctly with the brush handle well clamped, this should result in a perfectly bored hole with a flat base. These bits are also available in metric sizes, so it may be possible to come very close to the desired knot diameter.
Steve