UV Light sterilization

[Gaudentius]

I have access to a UV hood that is rarely used. I didn't want to double post on both the brush section and the razor section, so I figured this was a happy medium.

I don't see any problem with exposing a razor under the UV light, but what about a shave brush? Could it possibly damage the bristles/hair on the brush?

Any ideas?

GD

[ina_lather]

I don't know if UV is the proper choice for sterilizing a razor, and especially, a brush. I might be mistaken, but it seems to me that the only surface that gets sterilized is whatever is directly exposed to the UV light, and thoroughly sterilizing a razor seems problematic at best - and the bristles on a brush seem to be too closely packed to do much good.

I'm sure others more knowlegable than I will chime in, but it seems a boil or an alocohol bath for the razor, and a Borax soaking followed by a lather-up with a clarifying shampoo and a good drying would suffice for the brush.

Let's see what the others have to say...

-whatever

-Lou

[Chris Richards]

Speaking as a photobiologist (no kidding), Lou is dead on. Shortwave UV-C (as you would find under a sterile laminar flow hood) will "nuke" whatever it comes into contact with, however as Lou mentioned, it has to be directly exposed. I don't think short term exposure would do any long lasting damage to your brush, but don't forget hair is almost all protein (which absorbs UV) so long term exposure would probably cause some photodegradation if irradiated long enough.

I'd find another route. Sounds like you are a biologist.... Use an autoclave. That will work wonders.

Chris

[Ben]

Go buy a cheap pressure cooker. At pressure, the temperatures exceed 212 F. It's a penetrating heat too, so nothing can really survive. Just keep in mind that an object must be clean before it can be sterile.

[ScottS]

Go buy a cheap pressure cooker. At pressure, the temperatures exceed 212 F. It's a penetrating heat too, so nothing can really survive. Just keep in mind that an object must be clean before it can be sterile.

Nothing, including, I suspect, many of the glues used in the brushmaking process.

With respect to brushes, I think after the factory process we are restricted to sanitization as opposed to sterilization.

Scott

[Ben]

Go buy a cheap pressure cooker. At pressure, the temperatures exceed 212 F. It's a penetrating heat too, so nothing can really survive. Just keep in mind that an object must be clean before it can be sterile.

Nothing, including, I suspect, many of the glues used in the brushmaking process.

With respect to brushes, I think after the factory process we are restricted to sanitization as opposed to sterilization.

Scott

I completely overlooked the part about the brushes. I thought he was talking razors. Oops! Yeah, don't put the brush in the pressure cooker.

[Gaudentius]

I'm not a biologist, but I do work with them. I'm an alpha-geek stuck in a mycological research lab as an analytical supervisor and a research assistant!

I do have access to an autoclave. I had already figured that sticking a brush in there would probably obliterate it, hence the question of UV. It's only my old brush, never used by anyone else. So I guess I'll be doing the borax thing with it.

Question about autoclaving razors though. I have a couple of them with bakelite handles and plastic ones as well. How would those handle autoclaving?

GD

[Newyorker545]

I'm not a biologist, but I do work with them. I'm an alpha-geek stuck in a mycological research lab as an analytical supervisor and a research assistant!

I do have access to an autoclave. I had already figured that sticking a brush in there would probably obliterate it, hence the question of UV. It's only my old brush, never used by anyone else. So I guess I'll be doing the borax thing with it.

Question about autoclaving razors though. I have a couple of them with bakelite handles and plastic ones as well. How would those handle autoclaving?

GD

GD, perhaps you could help prove which method of brush drying is the best, bristles up or hanging bristles down. On a previous thread http://www.shavemyface.com/forum/viewto ... ush+weight an experiment was conducted, but it was only done once. Is it possible to re-create this experiment a few times to see if the drying times are faster/more complete with a stand or without? It would just take a stand, a brush, and a precise scale to measure the dry brush.


Richard

[Chris Richards]

For razors:

Surgeons autoclave metal instruments all the time (scapels, scissors etc...) with no ill effects. An all-metal razor should be no problem. The introduction of plastic (or glue in the case of brushes) would be problematic I would guess. Ask your media tech what they recommend for instruments containing plastics. Some plastics can certainly be autoclaved, but they have to be pretty hefty plastic.

Chris

[Newyorker545]

For razors:

Surgeons autoclave metal instruments all the time (scapels, scissors etc...) with no ill effects. An all-metal razor should be no problem. The introduction of plastic (or glue in the case of brushes) would be problematic I would guess. Ask your media tech what they recommend for instruments containing plastics. Some plastics can certainly be autoclaved, but they have to be pretty hefty plastic.

Chris

Plastics are usually chemically sterilized. Ethylene Oxide, if I remember correctly. This was twenty years ago so I don't know if the chemicals are the same or not.

Richard

[Ben]

Question about autoclaving razors though. I have a couple of them with bakelite handles and plastic ones as well. How would those handle autoclaving?

Have a look at some of the resources here.

[Gaudentius]

Ok, so the plastic may be ok. I have a Knack I've been wanting to sterilize that I can afford to experiment on.

My backlite razors are another matter though. From my understanding, bakelite isn't necessarily plastic. I read somewhere that bakelite can be resin with either wood pulp, sawdust or asbestos. That's why I'm concerned about it. Would the resin hold up in an autoclave?

I may have a bakelite Schick injector in pretty bad condition that could be used to test this. The thing is, it's still usable and clean. I just don't use it because the head is kinda ugly lookin'. All the shine is gone and it's just a brass colored head. I may just sacrifice it to see what would happen. But realize that's it's only one type of bakelite being used. I'll take before and after pics and post what happens.

As far as the brush experiment goes, that's an experiment that would have to be planned out. I would have to find an incubator or some such, and take timed readings throughout the day until I finally have a stabilized read. I could probably do it on a weekend when no one is in the lab, otherwise other lab personnel would question my sanity. Think about it.

GD

[Ben]

Would the resin hold up in an autoclave?

I honestly don't know, but I'd worry about deforming it. Seriously, unless the razor has been sitting in fresh blood of unknown origin, I think autoclaving it is a bit much.

[Newyorker545]

As far as the brush experiment goes, that's an experiment that would have to be planned out. I would have to find an incubator or some such, and take timed readings throughout the day until I finally have a stabilized read. I could probably do it on a weekend when no one is in the lab, otherwise other lab personnel would question my sanity. Think about it.

GD

BTW, my apologies for changing the topic of the thread.

GD, no need for an incubator. Simply weigh a dry brush, wet as in normal use, shake dry and let stand on handle, and then weigh again a set time later (say 12 hours and 24 hours). Repeat one or two more times. Then repeat with the brush to dry with a stand. I'm sure all on SMF would be very appreciative for any conclusive results. If time is lacking, then only a weighing of the drying brush 24 hours later would be needed. Whichever produces the closest to original dry weight wins. If both methods are the same, then either drying method would result in a completely dry brush the next day.

Richard

[Gaudentius]

What I meant by incubator was just to have something with a controlled environment to work with. That way the results could really be compared.

Lately we've had weather that's been kinda' wonky. One day it nice warm and humid, the next day it cold and cloudy. Our lab doesn't have very good climate controls so I figured an icubator or a controlled drying oven would work.

We have a low temp oven that is only used about once a week for overnight drying that would be perfect for this little experiment.

GD

[Newyorker545]

Ah, I see! Well, most any environment would be more controlled than a humid bathroom. Looking forward to the results!

Richard

[Chris Richards]

Ok, talked a microbiologist here on campus.

Polyethlyene and polypropylene should be good at 121 C for 20 minutes. Do not autoclave polystyrene or it will melt. I would guess that you will need to find out what your handle is made of.

Chris

[Newyorker545]

Gaudentius, you have a PM.

Richard

[12345Michael54321]

Seriously, unless the razor has been sitting in fresh blood of unknown origin, I think autoclaving it is a bit much.

I agree.

A razor is presumably metal, not an agar plate. Assuming any microscopic nasties have managed to survive on the razor since it was last used (and that's often years, or even decades, when dealing with a used DE), soaking it in boiling water ought to take care of them.

I mean, I get how "you can't be too careful." But when you dine at a restaurant, do you require proof that the forks were cleaned with bleach, alcohol, an autoclave, and UV light, prior to them being brought to the table?

[Chris Richards]

Not to be defensive here, but you do realize that they autoclave surgical instruments in the hospital right? Better safe than sorry. If you have access to an autoclave, wrap your razor in a couple layers of aluminum foil and go for it. Why not? I wouldn't recommend this for somebody who didn't have one handy, but the OP works in a biology lab, so it shouldn't be a problem.