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Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shaving?

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:28 am
by ScottB
I originally came to SMF seeking information on straight razor shaving.

I've been using a DE with great results for about a year but still feel inclinded to try a traditional straight.

Well, I'm one of those who recently bought a Feather AC Japanese Style because of some really positive posts by a certain member (where *is* that guy now?). For me its become clear that this razor is not suitable as a daily shaver as it seems to remove a bit more skin than is comfortable on a daily basis.

I've gotta ask, does a traditional straight razor pull uncomfortably? Are straights really suitable for daily shaving? Does blade preparation take vast amounts of time? I have read the excellent guide by Dr. Chris Moss and read most threads relating to straights but would appreciate some candid input about comfort and practicality before I spend any more money. :lol:

Thanks.

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 12:21 pm
by mparker762
ScottB wrote:For me its become clear that this razor is not suitable as a daily shaver as it seems to remove a bit more skin than is comfortable on a daily basis.
Same here. More power to the guys that can make the feather work on a daily basis, but it's too exhausting shaving that carefully, at 6am, day in and day out.
ScottB wrote:I've gotta ask, does a traditional straight razor pull uncomfortably?
It will if it isn't sharp enough. This is solid incentive to learn to hone well.
ScottB wrote: Are straights really suitable for daily shaving?
Sure. It doesn't take me any longer to shave with a straight than it does with a DE. You have to strop, but it takes fewer passes, cuts a wider swathe, and needs less rinsing. Stropping is slow when you're just starting out, but takes only seconds with some experience.
ScottB wrote: Does blade preparation take vast amounts of time?
After a few weeks stropping doesn't take more than 20-30 secs. Honing can take some time, depending on how you're doing it and how much practice you have. A razor's first honing will likely take some time, and your first honing will likely take quite a long time. Refreshing the blade on the hone is very quick (only a few swipes on a barber hone, coticule, or shapton) if you don't let it get too dull.

If you hang around on SRP you'll hear a *lot* of discussion of honing, but most of this is due to guys trying to hone up grandpa's razor or some crusty 200-yr old ebay razor. If you buy a new razor or a vintage razor in mint condition (or even better - a new or mint vintage razor that's already been honed) then you'll find ongoing honing maintenance will be a snap.

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:40 pm
by DEF
I find I get the best results if I do most of my shave with a DE, then use the Feather AC for a final ATG pass. The DE takes out the bulk of the whiskers with less potential trauma to the face, and the AC wipes out whatever's left. This has been working very well for me lately with no apparent ill effects on the face.

Doug

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 1:55 pm
by rahul325
DEF wrote:I find I get the best results if I do most of my shave with a DE, then use the Feather AC for a final ATG pass. The DE takes out the bulk of the whiskers with less potential trauma to the face, and the AC wipes out whatever's left. This has been working very well for me lately with no apparent ill effects on the face.

Doug
this is an awesome idea !!! i shud keep this in mind if i ever find the courage to use a straight !!!

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 2:57 pm
by drmoss_ca
A traditional straight involves more than the shave. It's a commitment to learn to hone and strop, an acquired skill that rewards in proportion to the time and effort spent, and a way of staying in touch with one's forebears. Given that everyone shaved this way at one time, it can't be that hard, can it? Well, no it isn't if you're satisfied with a nineteenth century shave. If you want to have a completely stubble free face you need to put in some time, but it can be done. And once you can do it, there's nothing better!

Chris

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 3:14 pm
by proFeign
drmoss_ca wrote:A traditional straight involves more than the shave. It's a commitment to learn to hone and strop, an acquired skill that rewards in proportion to the time and effort spent, and a way of staying in touch with one's forebears. Given that everyone shaved this way at one time, it can't be that hard, can it? Well, no it isn't if you're satisfied with a nineteenth century shave. If you want to have a completely stubble free face you need to put in some time, but it can be done. And once you can do it, there's nothing better!

Chris
hear hear.

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 4:51 pm
by bernards66
Scott, Nobody can really answer your question for you....ultimately, you'll have to decide for yourself. Obviously, some gents use a traditional straight for their daily shave. We have some on this forum. Do they 'pull' a lot? Well, that's subjective, really. I thought that they did...annoyed the hell out of me, actually. But, other gents don't seem to experiance it that way. There are a number of potential factors. Who can say for certain how you would find it to be?
Regards,
Gordon

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 5:05 pm
by rustyblade
bernards66 wrote:Scott, Nobody can really answer your question for you....ultimately, you'll have to decide for yourself. Obviously, some gents use a traditional straight for their daily shave. We have some on this forum. Do they 'pull' a lot? Well, that's subjective, really. I thought that they did...annoyed the hell out of me, actually. But, other gents don't seem to experiance it that way. There are a number of potential factors. Who can say for certain how you would find it to be?
Regards,
Gordon
I remember Chris M once said that you get a perverse pleasure from the pulling. I can understand that now.

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 6:04 pm
by addicted
ScottB wrote: I've gotta ask, does a traditional straight razor pull uncomfortably? Are straights really suitable for daily shaving? Does blade preparation take vast amounts of time? I have read the excellent guide by Dr. Chris Moss and read most threads relating to straights but would appreciate some candid input about comfort and practicality before I spend any more money. :lol:

Thanks.
I'll answer it from a newbie perspective. In my experience you don't notice the pull even from not-so-sharp razor on 1 or 2 days stubble. I only notice it on 3 days worth.

I'd say it's perfectly suitable for daily shaving but it definitely takes me more time than DE used to take. I strop the night before to save some time. Some people are against it but it works for me. However, I loose time mostly because I have to be more careful with the straight, shaving as well as rinsing the blade. Basically if you hit it against the sink or something, you're likely to chip the blade. Also, stretching the skin (which you don't really need to do with DE) also takes a bit more time. Plus, I have to use a towel to hold my face 'cause it can get slippery.

So little by little it adds up. Of course, if you keep at it, one day you can probably be like Lynn - sharpen the blade like a samurai sword and get a BBS from a single WTG pass in 2 min. :) Me, it takes me 15 - 20 min to do the basic shave with 3 passes and the neck work. But I still like it and am planning to stick with it.

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 6:15 pm
by proFeign
and I don't think you can call the AC a half-assed or not-real shave. if you can shave with an AC you can probably shave with anything...

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 6:16 pm
by rustyblade
addicted wrote:
Also, stretching the skin (which you don't really need to do with DE) also takes a bit more time. Plus, I have to use a towel
Proper stretching is essential to a close shave with a straight. The Feather AC will remove everything in its path, no questions, a real straight needs a bit of help to get under the whiskers as there is more flex in the blade (I hope I am getting this correct). Once you learn it though it is really easy. Also, using a drier lather will help you grip the skin as your face will dry quickly once that area is shaved.

More enjoyable using a real straight? Definitely.

BTW, It was me who was touting the benefits of the non-folding AC. It is a great razor, but one needs to take it really easy. I overdid it. The recommendation to use it for the finishing pass is a great one. Either that or petition Feather to make a blade that is more "friendly." If you want something a bit friendlier to the skin in the meantime, try an injector blade, the only problem is they are a bit too short.

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 6:21 pm
by proFeign
rustyblade wrote:
addicted wrote:
Also, stretching the skin (which you don't really need to do with DE) also takes a bit more time. Plus, I have to use a towel
Proper stretching is essential to a close shave with a straight. The Feather AC will remove everything in its path, no questions, a real straight needs a bit of help to get under the whiskers as there is more flex in the blade (I hope I am getting this correct). Once you learn it though it is really easy. Also, using a drier lather will help you grip the skin as your face will dry quickly once that area is shaved.

More enjoyable using a real straight? Definitely.

BTW, It was me who was touting the benefits of the non-folding AC. It is a great razor, but one needs to take it really easy. I overdid it. The recommendation to use it for the finishing pass is a great one. Either that or petition Feather to make a blade that is more "friendly." If you want something a bit friendlier to the skin in the meantime, try an injector blade, the only problem is they are a bit too short.
I bought a "sanguine" handle like a shavette from eBay and now I use all kinds of blades in it. A small piece of electrical tape on one side of a blade will provide the thickness and cushion to hold it tightly in the crappy handle when squeezed between the two halves of the blade holder. It's easy to do. So I can use any type of DE, feather, or SE blade in it and it helps me try them all out. The feather AC itself is way too expensive IMO for what is essentially a piece of stamped metal.

I made a carbon fiber handle for feather pro blades that doesn't fold and I really like it. I think the non folding handle gives a little more certainty to the cutting and is a little easier to control. storing it is another story...

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Thu May 31, 2007 11:00 pm
by axel
ScottB wrote: I've been using a DE with great results for about a year but still feel inclinded to try a traditional straight.

I've gotta ask, does a traditional straight razor pull uncomfortably? Are straights really suitable for daily shaving? Does blade preparation take vast amounts of time?
Hi Scott,

I have switched to using a Straight Razor solely (aside from travelling) for shaving. Before, a DE was (and for said travelling still is) my favorite shaving tool.

With regard to your questions: well, a Straight Razor does pull more than a DE (or a Feather). But I wouldn't call it uncomfortable, its something that takes a bit getting used to but then its rather a nice thing to feel your blade at work :) When its getting uncomfortable, I have to resharpen the blade again.

For daily shaving, my straight shave takes about 5 minutes more than the DE shave (15 instead of 10 minutes) for my usual BBS shave (WTG, ATG, Cleanup). I do the stropping the evening before, this takes a few minutes before going to bed.

When you talk about straight razor shaving, the biggest step to take is the honing part (at least if you want to go the full way). From my experience this is the most annoying as well as the most pleasant part.

Annoying in that it took me very long to get my edges in a shaving sharp condition by myself, and I am still far away from counting myself as being an apt honer, but it may be my own "2 left hands, thumbs only" way :)

On the other hand its the most pleasant experience and a feeling of great accomplishment to (finally) get a nice shave with a blade you sharpened yourself, even nicer when doing so with some nicely polished and restored Eb*y ugly ...

The shaving itself is not that difficult, just be prepared to spend considerable time until you get the honing part down.

Would I recommend going this way ? Yes, anytime !
Are there easier ways of getting a close, comfortable shave ? Yes, sure (e.g. DE).
Are straight razors more fun ? Definitely :)

Sorry for the lengthy reply, I got a bit carried away 8)

Have fun,
-Axel-

P.S.: With regard to the Feather - while its an excellent tool, I felt it an dissatisfying experience. The main thing about straight razor shaving for me is the whole package - including the care for the tool you use. This is exactly what the Feather is taking away. Some may count this as a plus, for me I saw no difference to using a DE.

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 3:10 am
by Ben
Just to set the record straight: I'm the one who has always -- and unflinchingly -- touted the benefits of the Japanese-style Feather Artist Club straight razor, and I'm the guy who introduced the razor to SMF and B&B, informed those who showed early interest in the razor of how to obtain one inexpensively, and ultimately brought it to the attention of Danielle at Classic Shaving. I use it for every single shave and have done so since the razor was delivered to me in September 2006.
proFeign wrote:If you can shave with an AC you can probably shave with anything...
Indeed.

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:17 am
by yasuo200365
addicted wrote:Also, stretching the skin (which you don't really need to do with DE) also takes a bit more time.
I beg to differ - Stretching the skin is also a well documented traditional DE technique for the same reason as straight razor shavers do it ..., to expose the hair. If you don't then the shave suffers.

I rarely do a full shave with a straight now days, just touch-ups. I just don't have the time on a work day morning to play about with them & even my Saturday morning straight shave has become few and far between.

Straights are great to look at and satisfying to use, but for the vast majority I guess they're just too much effort - so not until retirement I guess.

The Feather is an expensive half-way house - a compromise that personally doesn't do it for me - stropping & honing is 50% of the satisfaction of using a straight.

Regards
John

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 4:55 am
by Slant-Fan
yasuo200365 wrote:
addicted wrote:Also, stretching the skin (which you don't really need to do with DE) also takes a bit more time.
I beg to differ - Stretching the skin is also a well documented traditional DE technique for the same reason as straight razor shavers do it ..., to expose the hair. If you don't then the shave suffers.

I rarely do a full shave with a straight now days, just touch-ups. I just don't have the time on a work day morning to play about with them & even my Saturday morning straight shave has become few and far between.

Straights are great to look at and satisfying to use, but for the vast majority I guess they're just too much effort - so not until retirement I guess.

The Feather is an expensive half-way house - a compromise that personally doesn't do it for me - stropping & honing is 50% of the satisfaction of using a straight.

Regards
John
I had a hell of a straight razor collection twenty years ago and ebayed all but a few that were left last year. Couple of hundred at one time. I wore out a copy of Robert Doyle's book. A friend was a professional barber and taught me the basics of stropping , honing and straight razor shaving as he practiced them. Back then I shaved with a straight often. Stretching the skin was a given as was holding the razor firmly enough to avoid dropping it but lightly enough that if it did pull it wouldn't cut you badly if at all.I believe that my late barber friend would have said that if the razor is pulling it is not shaving sharp or that the person shaving is not stretching the skin. I have been thinking about getting my old M&K # 32 out and giving it a go for the first time in years. Perhaps I will and I will report back.

Jimmy

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 5:48 am
by rustyblade
Perhaps we should clarify terms. I find a real straight has more resistance shaving against the grain than you get from a DE or Feather, you are also cutting larger swaths than with a DE. The nice thing about a straight is you can do steady confident strokes without the worry of peeling your cheeks off your face.

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:27 am
by fallingwickets
Ben

Welcome back to the land of the living

Clive

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 6:41 am
by mparker762
tat2niner wrote:I have been thinking about getting my old M&K # 32 out and giving it a go for the first time in years.
What a great razor. I've got two Heljestrand M&K #32's and two #31's (one each in celluloid and ivory) and absolutely love them. Any idea what the M&K stood for?

Re: Feather AC a mere distraction on the road to REAL shavin

Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:01 am
by addicted
axel wrote:P.S.: With regard to the Feather - while its an excellent tool, I felt it an dissatisfying experience. The main thing about straight razor shaving for me is the whole package - including the care for the tool you use. This is exactly what the Feather is taking away. Some may count this as a plus, for me I saw no difference to using a DE.
Axel, most of your post sounds like it was taken straight out of my head :D

And I especially agree with you on feather. It's like the trouble of using straight without the benefits. I was perfectly fine using it but to me it seemed like overly agressive DE. I imagine that's what slant with feather blade would be like but I've never tried slant.

I bought japanese style feather and like it just for the form factor but after using it a few times in the beginning, I went back to regular straight.