Page 1 of 1

SCRATCHES ON PLASTIC GILLETTE BOXES

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 10:53 am
by rickcaron2008
HI ALL...I WONDER IF ANYONE HAS A CREDIBLE IDEA ON HOW TO REMOVE SCRATCHES FROM PLASTIC, SUCH AS THE PLASTIC BOXES OF GILLETTE?.....THANKS........RICK
Image

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 1:49 pm
by gil3591
you won't remove the scratches. best you can do is hide them a little. try lemon pledge. spray it on and litely buff it off

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:32 pm
by Squire
I wouldn't bother Rick, just going to toss it when empty anyway.

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 2:32 pm
by druphus
You could use - first "buffing compound/next "polishing compound" - to buff them off. Depending on how deep the scratches are it could be quite a job.

Would recommend using a dremel tool unless you are very patient.

Removing scratches

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 3:30 pm
by rickcaron2008
Thanks very much for your help guys.....i think i am going to try the buffing compound method, what can it hurt. The plastic is on a collectible Gillette product...Please see the pics........Rick
Image

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 4:04 pm
by druphus
That's big enough to use a small car-buffer. Be sure to secure it well, so the buffer doesn't throw it across the room!

Or, you could do it by hand with a rag. Probably don't need anything but polishing compound because it doesn't appear to be that scratched.

for the help

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:52 pm
by rickcaron2008
thanks andy......rick

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:52 pm
by Gatorade
Stop, don't use the buffing compound or any power tools. Go to an auto parts store and look for PlastiX. It is made for plastic. Specifically it is to polish the plastic headlight covers so they aren't dull. Use it just like a car wax with a rag. Don't press too hard, support the plastic from underneath maybe with a cloth covered block that will fit inside the rim of the cover.

ok

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:56 pm
by rickcaron2008
thanks charlie i appreciate the heads up!!!!!! sorry LSU here!!!! :-)

Re: ok

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:59 pm
by Gatorade
rickcaron2008 wrote:thanks charlie i appreciate the heads up!!!!!! sorry LSU here!!!! :-)

Geoux Tigers! Love that the crystal will stay in the SEC family. Will love it even more if Saban gets denied!

COLLEGE POLITICS

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:02 pm
by rickcaron2008
OH MAN......i don't even get started on good old down south sports!!!! :D :?

Re: COLLEGE POLITICS

Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:12 pm
by Gatorade
rickcaron2008 wrote:OH MAN......i don't even get started on good old down south sports!!!! :D :?

I know the feeling! In 2008 I sold one of my brushes to help pay for my ticket to the BCS Championship Game when it was here in Miami.

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 1:35 am
by Pauldog
Another respected plastic polish is Novus. It comes in 3 grades - 1 is more of a polish than an abrasive, 2 is light to moderate, and 3 is strong. With a deep scratch, you'd start with 3 and follow up with 2.

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:48 am
by Seamaster
There is a compound called Polywatch, which is used to remove light scratching from acrylic watch crystals. The alternative — believe it or not — is toothpaste. Try it, but be patient. It can take up to half an hour of persistent rubbing to remove even light scratches/hazing.

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:05 am
by brothers
I've had occasion to address scratches on vintage shaving brushes made of plastic. Before I epoxy the new knot in place, I use a series of grits of "wet-or-dry" sandpapers, usually starting out with 600 grit, then graduating to something like 1000, 1200, or 1500 grit, then finishing with 2000 grit, and as a lubricant for the sandpaper I like to use Flitz polish I got at the hardware store. After the 2000, I use a rag to polish the entire handle with Flitz. The last one I restored was just a week ago, for a family member's Christmas gift being given by a daughter to her dad (my son). It came out looking brand new, if I do say so myself. I guess you can say my system is tried and true.

THANKS TO ALL

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:08 am
by rickcaron2008
WOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN SO MUCH HELP I CAN'T BELIEVE IT......THANKS SO MUCH......
GARY DID YOU USE YOUR METHOD ON CLEAR PLASTIC??

Re: THANKS TO ALL

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:17 am
by brothers
rickcaron2008 wrote:WOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN SO MUCH HELP I CAN'T BELIEVE IT......THANKS SO MUCH......
GARY DID YOU USE YOUR METHOD ON CLEAR PLASTIC??
No, I haven't used it on clear plastic. I will be interested to see if anyone else has removed a scratch in clear plastic. I am not recommending mine on clear due to the sandpaper. It might be better to ignore the scratch. I can see the possibility that on clear, doing something involving abrasives might make it look worse instead of better.

plastic

Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 12:57 pm
by rickcaron2008
thanks gary......happy new year

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 3:42 am
by rpk
Hi Rick,

I'll second the recommendation on Novus plastic polishes. I've used them for years on a variety of plastics with good results. Initially picked them up or acrylic display cases that had scratches. You can read about them at their website here. The #2 polish is the one I use the most, and likely the best fit.

Another product I use is Brillianize. This is more of a finish polish that puts a protective coat on the surface. Non toxic and does a great job shining and protecting surfaces.

Take care,

scratches

Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 9:54 am
by rickcaron2008
thanks rich...i need all the help i can get.......happy new year